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Routes in Middle Rabbit Ear

Church Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Expectations T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gubbins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Normal Route (South Corner) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face Gullies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Central T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C0
Three's the Charm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad
FA: Bill Hackett and Dick Ingraham
Page Views: 124 total · 2/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating system certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. For comparison, the Normal Route, considered by many to be seriously sandbagged at 5.6, is listed in the same document as 5.5, the West Face as 5.6. So please treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

Go as in South Face Cutoff about 2 roped pitches to the middle of the great concave bowl of a face (hot in the summer). Go straight up the smooth dihedral in the middle for about 120 feet where a possible belay spot opens up. The next pitch continues straight up the dihedral which is now more broken up but quite steep in spots. Then easier climbing leads up to the summit.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Unknown.

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