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Routes in The Citadel

Anticipation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arch Rival T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clem's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Breakers TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finger Zinger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Glad We Came S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hercamur Snurd T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Iron Worker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Diddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murray's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romper Room T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Thoughts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stem Cell Research T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Styx n Stones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whole Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
best forgotten art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dick Ingraham & Clem Ota, 1972
Page Views: 1,881 total, 13/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on May 8, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The second pitch dihedral has stellar climbing and can easily be done without the following pitches. From first appearances though this climb can be easily overlooked. The first pitch climbs up a moss filled gully and is not exactly appealing. However, once the dihedral is obtained the climbing is superb. The dihedral offers intermittent flaring hand/finger cracks and requires creative stemming and smart gear placement.

Pitch 1: Start either below or to the right of a small tree seen up on the rock. Traverse left of the tree to a dihedral and follow this up. A short bit of face climbing will take you to a wide ledge.

Pitch 2: Go up the dihedral on your right. Near the top of ti you may exit to your left for a short break, but will be right back in the same crack until the belay, which is a bolt backed up by a piton.

Pitch 3: Head right towards an old 1/4" bolt about 15' away and keeps going right and only slightly up so that you top out of the slab just short of a left-facing corner above it. You can go up this corner and cut right under a roof at the top of it to a belay stance above a large boulder. A better protectable way to the same belay is to go past the corner and up the boulders and such which make up the arete.

Pitch 4: Follows a 25' hand-crack to another ledge and then easy 5th class scrambling to the summit.

Location

The base of this climb is near the clearing at the bottom of the descent gully for Glad We Came. Either start directly from the left edge of this clearing, or bushwhack 15' further east and climb directly up to the dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack. The anchor at the top of P1 is a new 1/2" bolt with a rap-ring, backed up by a piton.
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
  5.8
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
  5.8
Pitch 1 can be profitably split in two by stopping on a ledge at the base of the dihedral. (The bush with slings on it you find there is not recommended as an anchor.) Doing it in two pitches will give you less drag for the dihedral and your belayer a better view of what you are doing. The belay is both comfortable and safe.

I have enjoyed the two pitches above, which we have done slightly to the right of the description given, and have not found the way back to the packs all that onerous. To avoid a bad bushwhack, you need to stay right under the cliff for the traverse to the left. Jul 26, 2013
Saw Clem Ota on 25 November when he came by for Thanksgiving dinner at son Charlie's place. Looks older than 1972. Nov 29, 2011
ascender30  
 
The Dihedral of the first pitch is certainly worth doing, but unless you need to get to the top of The Citdael, I suggest rapping down from the top of P1. If you do top out, head left (South) about 60' and find rap anchors on a slab at the top of the gully that is South around the BIG corner from Clem's Folly. Double-Rope rap down into the gully, then SLOG down and bushwack across to the Clem's Folly start (not recommended). Mar 14, 2011
This climb was put up by Dick Ingram and Clem Ota. It is so named because Clem took a bad fall on it. Both of them showed up at the Southwestern Mountaineer part at the Pizza Boulders that afternoon. Clem looked much the worse for wear Sep 13, 2010