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Routes in The Citadel

Anticipation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arch Rival T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Best Forgotten Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clem's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Breakers TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finger Zinger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Glad We Came S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hercamur Snurd T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Iron Worker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Diddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murray's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romper Room T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Thoughts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stem Cell Research T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Styx n Stones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whole Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Mike Head et. al. ca. 1978
Page Views: 93 total · 3/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Mar 7, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The hardest moves are near the ground without protection. There is a bolt after the first moves. Continue up a crack until there is a small crack going left. Move left, the second crux, and continue up the crack to easier climbing. The climb finishes on the Finger Zinger ledge. Arch Rival (a later variation) comes in from the left to join Anticipation in the crack section prior to any traverse moves to the left.

Location

The route is slightly left of Finger Zinger next to a tree. The first bolt is high, hence the R rating. We once placed a sling high in the tree to help protect the move but this might just be psycho pro. Descent is a two rope rap from the Finger Zinger anchors.

Protection

Standard Organ Trad rack with emphasis on smaller gear.

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