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Routes in The Citadel

Anticipation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arch Rival T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Best Forgotten Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clem's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Breakers TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finger Zinger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Glad We Came S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hercamur Snurd T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Iron Worker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Diddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murray's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romper Room T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Thoughts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stem Cell Research T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Styx n Stones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whole Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 145 ft
FA: Jim Graham
Page Views: 1,325 total · 9/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on May 8, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details


This route follows a blunt arete on the NE face of the Citadel. It is a fun and exposed face route, with superb views up Rabbit Ear canyon. The solitude alone makes it a worthy destination, not to mention the solid and clean granite.


To reach this route, stay in Rabbit Ear canyon until you can clearly see the NE face of the Citadel. The route is fairly easy to identify from below by looking for a clean arete that terminates below a steep head-wall. To reach the base of the climb look for a trail marked with cairns that starts right after the canyon turns right. The area around the base of the cliff is relatively clear.


7 3/8" (new) bolts protect the route. A large cam can be placed near the start to eliminate the initial 30' run-out (on easy terrain). A mid-size cam/wire is useful after the last bolt to reduce the 30' run-out to the anchors. The anchor is below a steep head-wall/roof and around the corner to the left and can't be seen until you get all the way to the top. The descent is down a gully directly below the anchors and is about 100'. Two ropes are recommended but it is possible to rappel a full rope length and then scramble down (easy 5th) the last 20'.


Forrest Wilcox
Las Cruces, NM
Forrest Wilcox   Las Cruces, NM
Very fun route. With all the routes that are next to it, it was almost like craging the Organs. Nov 17, 2012

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