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Routes in The Citadel

Anticipation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arch Rival T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clem's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Breakers TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finger Zinger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Glad We Came S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hercamur Snurd T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Iron Worker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Diddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murray's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romper Room T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Thoughts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stem Cell Research T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Styx n Stones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whole Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
best forgotten art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Steve Wondzell?
Page Views: 492 total, 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on May 30, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This short corner climb can be used as an alternative 1st pitch for West Ridge as it gains the same big ledge. It is short and steep, and I found it somewhat puzzling as well, with the good holds not always obvious (and certainly not marked with chalk, I doubt this route sees much traffic). Overall, despite the interesting and good climbing, the somewhat loose rock and tenuous gear placements did not leave a favorable impression with me. Perhaps with more traffic, it could improve.

Location

Located on the Citadel's west face, Iron Worker is a fairly obvious short corner climb a few hundred feet uphill from the start of West Ridge.

Protection

The name of this route got me wondering if protection for this climb is best done with pitons. I didn't notice any obvious pin-scars, but only using wires and cams didn't feel very comfortable. Shallow flaring placements, or awkwardly angled pods for nuts... it all added up to not much confidence.

No fixed gear at the top, but one can walk around on the ledge over to the chain anchors on top of Finger Zinger where a 2-rope rappel hits the ground.

Photos

Should this climb be bombed? Or should a local just go up to the ledge, TR and clean the route and perhaps add a fixed pin? The single pitch climbs on the Citadel make for good summer climbing and another route is always good. Mar 7, 2016
It is at the top of the second pitch of Bent Thoughts (farther up the canyon). It can also be approached from the top. The 1/4" bolts are about 30 years old, add a new 3/8" bolt. See the old topo Pat posted:

mountainproject.com/v/10655… Jul 24, 2012
Eugene Staley
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Eugene Staley   Albuquerque, New Mexico
I was up at the citadel on Saturday looking to do some climbing and was going to go up one of the lines on the paper we had, not yet on MP, but there were no marked raps if the route wasn't satisfactory, you mentioned a rap route. about where is it? Jul 23, 2012
This route was probably put up by Steve Wondzell. There are other routes to the right on the West Face of the Citadel. There is also a rap route down the West Face (two ropes). May 31, 2010