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Routes in The Citadel

Anticipation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arch Rival T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clem's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Breakers TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finger Zinger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Glad We Came S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hercamur Snurd T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Iron Worker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Diddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murray's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romper Room T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Thoughts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stem Cell Research T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Styx n Stones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whole Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
best forgotten art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Murray?
Page Views: 986 total, 7/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jun 17, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

It looks like an off-width, but even if you don't like off-widths, this is a fun route. Hardly any grunting required, just clean (and amazingly not too strenuous) lay-backs all the way up. Near the top, it is common to traverse right on a small crack system over to the anchors for Finger Zinger. Probably the hardest part of the route is just getting into the off-width, because the rock is slightly loose and the crack is too wide to be comfortable. It is a great route for hot summer days as all but the very top of it stays in the shade.

Location

The big crack on the left of Finger Zinger. This climb is also easily recognizable from the approach.

Protection

Some big pieces are nice. A few #3 and maybe a couple larger ones will give you all the protection you need. If you're uncomfortable at the grade, take more big pieces, if not 2-3 should suffice. A fixed #4 Camelot dating back to 2011 is 1/2 up the route, and the small crack system which can be used to traverse over to the anchors takes finger-sized cams.

Photos

Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
 
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
 
The top-rope can be set up where Murray's crack reaches the wide ledge at the top of the first pitch of the West Ridge. Belay from above and then walk over to the bolts shared by Murray's Crack and Finger Zinger for the rappel down. Jul 26, 2013
Karl Kiser
  5.8
Karl Kiser  
  5.8
Aaron is correct, you only need a few large pieces if comfortable at the grade. The pitch isn't a beginner climb and one can set up a TR by climbing the Northwest Ridge of the Citadel to the Finger Zinger anchor. I first led the climb in the summer of 75 with blue Robbin's boots and with an 11 Hex as the largest piece. Jul 13, 2013
Ian Harris
Las Cruces NM
 
Ian Harris   Las Cruces NM
 
I think you need more than 2-3 big pieces. 2 each of #3,#4,#5 could be good, plus a few more. And small cams really helped at the top. Jul 12, 2013