Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,117 total · 19/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on May 8, 2006 with improvements by Karl R. Kiser
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Description

A beautiful dihedral just to the right of Glad We Came. There are a few variations on this climb. All of them start on easy terrain and head straight up into the dihedral. Mid-way through the dihedral is a good stance/ledge. An excellent single pitch climb continues up the dihedral (thin fingers and bomber stemming) to its logical end, and then makes an exposed but well protected traverse to the anchors of Glad We Came.

Another variation climbs to the right from the stance/ledge and then up to a bolt anchor. From here, one can traverse left under the roof to the anchors of Glad We Came or continue up to the summit (I can't find info on the grade).

A description of the full route, though most will likely only do the first pitch:

The original route (Jim Pratt et al. mid 1970s) is a bit different than the above.

p1: climb up to the obvious left facing dihedral. About two thirds up the dihedral, exit right and continue up to a stance below the headwall.

p2: traverse left for a bit, encounter a face crux, probably using, the "death block" described in the comments. I remember a good cam and hand jam in this area. Continue on to a smaller stance and fixed anchor. This is a rather short pitch.

p3: climb straight above the belay in an awkward crack (5.9/5.10) and continue to another good stance. This is yet another shorter pitch.

p4: continue up on easy climbing until one can reach the top of the Citadel. this pitch is long and probably includes portions of the top of Clem's Folly.

Location

Located just to the right of Glad We Came in a prominent dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack. Thin camming units are useful for the dihedral section above the stance. A #3 Camalot or equivalent readily protects the traverse over to Glad We Came.

Photos