Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,995 total · 19/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on May 8, 2006 with updates from Karl R. Kiser
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details


A beautiful dihedral just to the right of Glad We Came. There are a few variations on this climb. All of them start on easy terrain and head straight up into the dihedral. Mid-way through the dihedral is a good stance/ledge. An excellent single pitch climb continues up the dihedral (thin fingers and bomber stemming) to its logical end, and then makes an exposed but well protected traverse to the anchors of Glad We Came.

Another variation climbs to the right from the stance/ledge and then up to a bolt anchor. From here, one can traverse left under the roof to the anchors of Glad We Came or continue up to the summit (I can't find info on the grade).

A description of the full route, though most will likely only do the first pitch:

The original route (Jim Pratt et al. mid 1970s) is a bit different than the above.

p1: climb up to the obvious left facing dihedral. About two thirds up the dihedral, exit right and continue up to a stance below the headwall.

p2: traverse left for a bit, encounter a face crux, probably using, the "death block" described in the comments. I remember a good cam and hand jam in this area. Continue on to a smaller stance and fixed anchor. This is a rather short pitch.

p3: climb straight above the belay in an awkward crack (5.9/5.10) and continue to another good stance. This is yet another shorter pitch.

p4: continue up on easy climbing until one can reach the top of the Citadel. this pitch is long and probably includes portions of the top of Clem's Folly.


Located just to the right of Glad We Came in a prominent dihedral.


Standard rack. Thin camming units are useful for the dihedral section above the stance. A #3 Camalot or equivalent readily protects the traverse over to Glad We Came.


Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN
Dennis Jackson's new guidebook is wrong about the 5.11 face climbing on the second pitch of this route (the summit variation). The 5.11 face climbing he refers to is on a different route called Hercumer Snurd. See Karl Kiser's . May 9, 2006
Eric Gottlieb
Las Cruces, NM
Eric Gottlieb   Las Cruces, NM
BEWARE OF MASSIVE DEATHBLOCK!!! My friend and I (both new to climbing in the LC area) did this route today and enjoyed 95% of it. I relied on the Beta from this site and may have gotten a little off route. Following the dihedral to the logical end meant (to me) going up until the wall got much steeper and was no longer a diherdral. There was a #4 camalot placement in a pod here and I started traversing left using some very good hidden holds but very lichen covered feet. The climbing seemed too insecure with the feet and I opted for a pendelum over to some face holds below a large block (with a #3 camalot placement). When I got to the block, I placed the cam and tested it, and saw and heard the block move about a half centimeter. This is the same block that is in the photo for this route with the second in the thin section. This DETACHED piece of rock is the size of a dorm refrigerator and is positioned directly over the belayer. When I was trying the traverse higher up, this #3 crack was where I was trying to reach to, and then would place gear in. Granted, from this point, the climbing becomes much more secure, but I felt I should share the knowledge of this deathblock with others who also aspire to do this highly rated route for the first time. I assume from the photo that my traverse route was a bit high for the standard route, or the locals here just run it out for added entertainment. Aug 25, 2007
Zack Libbin  
Was very lichen covered when I climbed in early may. The lichen adds to the difficulty in the thin part of the dihedral and especially in the traverse as noted above. The traverse was scary with only lichen feet but can be well protected just before traversing left. Block-o-death was still there perched above the belayer. May 22, 2009
Karl R. Kiser
  5.9- PG13
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.9- PG13
Aaron has described the single pitch variation of the climb. It would be done more often than the entire climb because a topout requires a rap and walk around the Citadel. I believe I was the first person to climb this variation in the mid 1980s. I think it might be about 5.9- PG.

I am not sure where Aaron made his traverse. I continued in the dihedral to where there was no crack, placed pro in a hueco and continued almost straight up until I reached the traverse portion of the original route. This traverse portion of the route may have used the "death block described in the comments. I remember a good cam and hand jam prior to moving left. It may indeed be loose now. The traverse does end at the stance where the Glad We Came anchors now exist. Mar 7, 2016