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Routes in The Citadel

Anticipation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arch Rival T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clem's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Breakers TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finger Zinger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Glad We Came S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hercamur Snurd T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Iron Worker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Diddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murray's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romper Room T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Thoughts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stem Cell Research T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Styx n Stones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whole Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
best forgotten art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,512 total · 11/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jun 17, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

A stand-out crack on the lower NW prow of the Citadel. This pitch makes an excellent start to the NW ridge route. The crux is the clean, slightly leaning crack, which requires a thin hands/finger sized move to gain a small ledge. Ignore the poot slings on the ledge and continue up the crack system on steep but easier face climbing. The angle then eases up and you can belay anywhere on the spacious ledge which is also the top of Finger Zinger.

Location

The prominent crack is easy to spot, on the NW buttress of the Citadel. It's one of the first climbs visible from the approach. The start is around the corner from Finger Zinger slightly on the western face.

Protection

Standard alpine rack will suffice, and having some cams in the finger/small-hand size is good for the crux.

Photos

Forrest Wilcox
Las Cruces, NM
 
Forrest Wilcox   Las Cruces, NM
 
nice hand jamming at the crux, really fun lead Aug 12, 2012
ascender30  
 
If you rap down from the slings over Finger Zinger, a 60m rope will NOT reach the ground...but it WILL reach a tree that you can climb down :)

So if you want to Top-rope FZ, you'll need a 70m rope. Mar 14, 2011

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