Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Steve Roach
Page Views: 431 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jorge Achata on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details


A moderate off-width and chimney line starting ten feet left of Murray's Crack. It looks harder than what it is from the ground, but it is still very real up there. Getting established in the crack is not difficult (5.7-5.8), with one new bolt protecting the first 20 feet. Past that, there are placements deeper inside the crack and as you go up there's a chock stone that can be used for protection as well.

Two finishes are possible at the top of the chimney:

- The original route does a short traverse left following a well-protected crack. The crux is about 85 feet up, where you come out of the off-width and around a corner to head left. Anchors can be set up with gear by the time the crack goes horizontal.

- A variation is going straight up through a short crack followed by unprotected face climbing.


North face of The citadel. Start the large off-width immediately left of Murray's Crack. Descent is by traversing west over a low grade slabby face with great holds but more marginal protection. Treat the traverse as you would a full pitch and descend from the 1/2 inch bolts over Finger Zinger. Descend with a 70 m rope or two 60 m ropes.


One 1/2 inch bolt (2013), full rack. Large cams for the off-width and/or medium size pieces for the features inside the crack. Smaller pieces for the anchors and for the traverse towards the bolts of Finger Zinger.


Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
I have rapped off the Finger Zinger bolts on a single 70m rope. Oct 8, 2013
Jorge Achata
Lima, Peru
Jorge Achata   Lima, Peru
Tanks for the info, I added that in the description. I top roped finger zinger with two 60 m ropes. I learned to carry two belay devices now for that kind of set up :) Nov 16, 2013