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Routes in The Citadel

Anticipation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arch Rival T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clem's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Breakers TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finger Zinger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Glad We Came S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hercamur Snurd T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Iron Worker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Diddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murray's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romper Room T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Thoughts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stem Cell Research T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Styx n Stones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whole Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
best forgotten art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Mark Gillis et. al. ca 1979
Page Views: 108 total, 5/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Mar 7, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

People climb the first two pitches and rap. The 5.11 third pitch has been climbed only a few times and should be considered X now given the old bolts on the route. The first three pitches were short, definitely less than half a 50m rope.

p1: face climb left and up, clip a bolt, and pull the bulge. Continue up to the fixed belay. Originally this was a 5.9 pitch (better to think of as 5.10a).

p2: slab climb right past a couple of bolts and go to a corner. Climb into a shallow dihedral, pass a fixed pin, and reach the headwall. Traverse left, exposed, to another fixed anchor. This was another 5.9 pitch better thought of as 5.10a today. Lower to the first anchor and let the second person clean the route. Both persons can rap from this station to the ground.

p3: another shorter pitch with a couple of fixed pieces. This is the crux pitch and is currently unsafe until someone replaces the old fixed gear. The climbing consisted of hard face climbing and a mantle.

p4: this is a long pitch which simply goes to the top in the easiest fashion.

Location

The route is uphill of Wish You Were Here about a third of the the way up the North Face gully. Rap the route (first two pitches) or go to the top and descend the east face rap.

Protection

Standard Organ trad rack. There are some fixed pieces and fixed anchors at the top of the first and second pitches.

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