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Routes in The Citadel
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Anticipation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Arch Rival T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Best Forgotten Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Clem's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Finger Breakers TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Finger Zinger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Glad We Came S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hercamur Snurd T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Iron Worker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Diddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Murray's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Romper Room T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Second Thoughts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Stem Cell Research T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Styx n Stones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whole Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wish You Were Here T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 632 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Hamling on Apr 1, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas
Details
The Organ Mountains are in the Organ Mountains Desert Peaks National Monument which includes eight Wilderness Study Areas (WSAs). Placing new bolts, even if hand-drilled, is not allowed in WSAs. Please see section 1.6, D5, (g) at the BLM Manual 6330—Management of BLM Wilderness Study Areasblm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files… document for the policy regarding fixed anchors in WSAs. More about the Organ Mountain Desert Peaks National Monument, including maps showing the WSAs, can be found here.organmountains.org/wilderness/
The Access Fund has some helpful informationaccessfund.org/open-gate-bl… about public land agencies and the bolting rules of each agency.
The Access Fund has some helpful informationaccessfund.org/open-gate-bl… about public land agencies and the bolting rules of each agency.
Description
This route has a low crux negotiating an undercling/smeary traverse. It is fun and easy to protect with small cams and nuts. Turn the roof on the right and follow a crack system with good gear up to more bulges. At this point a couple of traverses to the left are possible but the climbing eases and you can choose the best looking line. Finish on the ledge where Finger Zinger anchors are located and rap with two ropes.
Location
Just right of the Finger Zinger face and before the normal approach for the Nose there is a low but obvious arching roof. Start in the right facing corner and undercling through the "arch" of the roof.
Protection
Standard Organs rack required. All sizes and configurations can be used but singles from small (.3) to Camalot #2 and nuts with some slings for drag will get you there. Finger Zinger anchor can be used for rap. I use double ropes to deal with the drag on this route and you need two ropes to get off the route safely.
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