Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: Forrest Wilcox
Page Views: 408 total · 5/month
Shared By: Forrest Wilcox on Mar 25, 2012
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details


To access the bolts, go around the left side of the wall and follow a vague trail to a big ledge about 70 feet up. It is a good route to take beginners to show them how to rappel or use ascender devices.


The base of the climb is right where the dirt road going into achenbach canyon stops


2 bolt anchor


- No Photos -
Honolulu, Hawaii
Justin.Hall   Honolulu, Hawaii
This route is very crumbly. If you have someone to belay below make sure they are a good rock dodgers. Do not go past the ledge 3/4 up because there are major loose rocks that can cause serious bodily harm to people at the base of the climb.

The bolted anchors at the top make you nervous, because of the rock quality, about how long will they last? The right bolt appears to be solid, however the left bolt seems to be drilled at an angle making it not as reliable.

Not to be judgmental, but if you are going to place a photo on Mountain Project, make sure the anchor is set up the correct way. The green nylon webbing has overhand knot on it that are prone to slipping on webbing slings. Make sure if your using a piece of webbing to make WATER KNOTS to tie them together. Safety first! No point in risking your life for simple mistakes in anchor building. Aug 8, 2013
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
I agree with the bomb rating. Not only the route, but the entire area should be avoided on account of poor rock quality. Aug 9, 2013
Forrest Wilcox
Las Cruces, NM
Forrest Wilcox   Las Cruces, NM
I made this route when I was about 16 cut me some damn slack man Aug 9, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Hi Forrest, don't take it personally--the rock is what it is. Having established a number of routes myself, I've realized a couple things:

The first thing a route developer/first ascensionist needs is thick skin. The second thing needed is the ability to accept criticism whether or not it's constructive criticism. Comments on the quality of rock or the quality of a route aren't necessarily comments aimed at you but, instead, the rock. You just happened to climb it first. Perhaps it could be cleaned up better to make for a safer route. And perhaps not. If the latter, other prospective climbers should be informed of this danger. If you feel it could clean up more and be safer, take the comments in stride, head out there and clean the route up some more. Or simply warn others that the route is still loose and accept the comments (and bomb ratings on MP.)

Keep up the exploration. Aug 9, 2013
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico

I'd suggest deleting the photo of the anchor but keep everything else ... the photo because others new to the realm might think the knot is an acceptable practice. With everything else as it stands for this route/crag, it has some service to the community in that it will caution others considering a climb in the area.

By the way, a lot of us are cheering for you in your adventures. You have a rare spirit and it reminds many of us of our younger selves.

Best Wishes,
Bill Aug 10, 2013