Avg: 3 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,804 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Hobson on Feb 28, 2006|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionA beautiful corner system which ascends the North end of the Checkerboard wall. The climbing is great for the first pitch, not bad the rest of the way. There are some sections of crumbly rock near the top, but for the most part the rock is good, the pro is solid and the moves are exciting.
Pitch 1: (70 ft) go up the clean, well defined corner to a ledge. Traversing to the right on the ledge will take you to a rap station if you do not wish to continue.
Pitch 2: (100 ft) continue up the corner past a fixed red cord and up a nice crack. Do NOT go to the top of the corner. Look past the arete on your right for a good opportunity to traverse right. Go past the bolt and up a 5.8 slab on small holds to the right of the small triangular roof. Continue up to a dished out spot with a crack on the left. There is usually a rap sling on a chock short distance above this location if you do not wish to continue.
Pitch 3: Original version (as per topo) goes straight up from here. It looks scary and I do not know it personally. I was told that it does go to another corner (by a person who traversed into it a bit higher).
Pitch 3: Squeeze chimney version. (140 ft) Go up the squeeze chimney above and continue on the left past a bush, then on the right to the top of the wide gully.
Pitch 4: (120 ft) Continue up and left, then up and right, over easier but not always well protectable terrain to where you are comfortable. Sling some boulders or a tree for belay.
To get to the rap line go up the ridge line and look for a largish green bush close to the left edge.
LocationTo get to the start of this route bushwhack your way to the northern end of the cliff. The large shaded and clean corner should be evident. It starts with two parallel cracks, continues as a single crack (see photo). The crack should be about hand size at the most, if you're starting in a chimney, you're on the wrong route.
To descend, use the usual Cross-trainer rap line. Alternatively you may traverse right after just a single pitch to a rappel sling in the next corner.