Avg: 1.9 from 7 votes
Routes in Checkerboard Wall
|Checkmate T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Circus Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cross-trainer T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Green Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|King Me T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Knight's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Lone Piton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Opening Moves T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Pawn's Promotion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Punch In The Nose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Queen's Gambit T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Red Squares T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Ring Leader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Ring Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sotol Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Worth the Effort T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,184 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Hobson on Nov 17, 2006|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionThis is another Un-named route that I have dubbed. It is on several old topos for the Checkerboard as one of the more prominent first pitch variations. What makes it nice is that it is easy to recognize, and offers a fixed anchor midway up tha wall. It also has good rock (except for the start which is flaky), fun moves, and a beautiful and easy off-width portion. The crux move is getting into the offwidth.
The climb follows the wide crack and traverses right under a roof or two. After one such traverse, there is a prominent and attractive off-width which cleaves a smooth slab (about 20 ft long). Optionally you can continue traversing right passing some old poot slings, and climb a chimney variation (with a big tree in it).
OPTIONAL - the full four-pitch "B" variation:
What makes this route nice is that it is easy to recognize, has good rock (except for the start which is flaky), a beautiful and easy off-width portion, and a short chimney section at the top.
P1: 30 meters, 5.6. Lead past / around right of three roofs. About when the V crack comes into view, veer right to shallow cracks leading up to hanging belay (ignore old slings).
P2: 35 meters, 5.7 PG13. Start up the V crack (crux), continue up and then step right and up into a vegetated area. Cross right onto a slab and then up roughly another 30 feet to a belay ledge with a good horizontal crack immediately above the ledge. This last 30 feet is difficult to protect, perhaps offering just one or two distant protection points.
P3: 35 meters, 5.7. This pitch is easier to protect than it appears. Head up the slab the easiest way, eventually passing a bolted belay beneath a thin ~8 foot vertical crack (crux). Continue up and into a huge grassy alcove left of a big green bush.
P4: ~55 meters, 5.8. Lead directly up the major crack / chimney system. Exit left at the roof above. Alternately, one can exit left about 20 feet below the roof ~5.8 either way. Find a broad / tall flake on the left and head up to the summit. Breaking this into two pitches may be wise for communication and/or rope drag.
Protection: Standard rack plus double up (about 6 pieces) in the range of 2 to 4 inches. Some hexes in this range are nice. A 4 inch cam works well at the advertised crux in the topo.