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Routes in Checkerboard Wall

Checkmate T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross-trainer T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King Me T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knight's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lone Piton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opening Moves T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pawn's Promotion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Punch In The Nose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Gambit T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Squares T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ring Leader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ring Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sotol Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worth the Effort T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,294 total, 11/month
Shared By: cuclimbing on Mar 24, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Named for a random rusty piton found on the route. Gets a great view of the Worth the Effort.

Approach as for Cross-trainer, leave packs on the slab left of it. Scramble near the base of rock until past the buttress left of Green Thumb.

Pitch 1, 5.4, maybe a bit more for the last step up. Length unknown (we always scrambled it). Go past the buttress, then up a thorny gully (the same "thorny gully" as for Ring Leader. Step left onto a ledge and continue up and left on the slab. The easiest, and even somewhat protectable, way is to go up the middle. A large sloping ledge will take you left. Scramble (or climb, it's about 5.6) another 20 feet up to a comfortable the walkable bottom of the gully where Worth the Effort starts.

Pitch 2. (100ft) Go up a left-slanting chimney filled here and there with variously sized boulders. Your first pro will be fairly high and there are some loose chocks to watch out for. Stay in contact with the solid slab on the left all the way past the last of the boulders as the chimney narrows to an off-width. Once past the chocks, make sure to place protection for your second. Take the clean corner to a nook under the overhang.

Pitch 3. Make a piton-protected step left onto a ledge and follow it. The ledge will become intermittent, but the hands are good. So is the exposure. Clip and old bolt and start up on smaller holds. Continue left past bird poop (no active nest) into a right-facing corner and stay in it for the rest of the climb. Your destination is the sotol against the sky line. The last third of pitch 3 can be avoided by taking off left, but you will not want to pass it up.

In a windy weather you may want to split pitch 3 in two to assure good communication with your second for the traverse section.

Location

Refer to the picture. The blue route goes up a seriously overgrown, unused gully. It's far cleaner to do the first pitch. The same goes for the approach to Worth the Effort.

Protection

Larger cams and nuts, too. There is a "lone piton" at the start of the third pitch.
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.8
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.8
Our rack included doubles from BD C4 0.75 to #3 plus a #4; used them all on the last pitch. Even brought a #6 and placed it ... but could have brought a 2nd #4 instead. Of course, a better leader could bring less.

Don't let the leftward horizontal traverse after the pitch of this intimidate you without at least starting to get on it. At the same time, a ~40 foot vertical hand-sized crack to the far right can be led before traversing back left and up and over into final vertical crack system (with an intermediate belay in there somewhere).

We saw two pitons on the route; still like the name. Thanks for posting - fun route! Jan 17, 2012