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Routes in Checkerboard Wall

Checkmate T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross-trainer T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King Me T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knight's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lone Piton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opening Moves T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pawn's Promotion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Punch In The Nose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Gambit T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Squares T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ring Leader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ring Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sotol Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worth the Effort T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,339 total, 16/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Mar 18, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

P1: From the table-top ledge, head pretty much straight up towards the roof to the left of the blue line in the below photo. Set a belay somewhere below the roof. 5.4, ~70 feet? [If you set the belay above the roof, there is some risk of a gear belay set around a detached block and a stance within striking distance of a fall from the crux.]


P2: Bypass the roof on its right. Stand on detached block above the roof and ponder the crux. A move or two sees the leader to easier terrain including face / slab climbing past two or three horizontal cracks. Set the belay on a large horizontal crack 5 or 10 feet to the right of a bunch of stick bushes of about a coffin-sized volume. 5.8? ~70 feet? Note: there used to be a good crimper up above for the crux move; it broke off; instead, think "bear hug".

P3: Head up vertical cracks until one can traverse right on a large horizontal crack (3 or 4 inch) for about 8 feet. Face climb up on runout terrain for about 25 feet to a large and flat belay platform with bomber chockstone way at the back. 5.5, ~70 feet?

P3: Traverse right and later up for about 70 feet into a huge cleft or alcove with a substantial roof system. One can use one or two bolts of Cross-trainer along the way. Belay on a very comfortable perch immediately up and right of the alcove - 4 inch and 2 inch gear for anchor. 5.4, unsure pitch length.

P4: Very short - traverse right along a very large crack / ledge for about 30 feet and then up again about as much to a boulder field and belay.

We linked P3 and P4 using a 70 meter rope. Not sure whether a 60 meter rope would make it.

Location

Locate the gully in the photo and scramble up about 100 feet. A belay anchor can be set up on a table-top ledge a little to the right.

Protection

Standard rack up to 5 inches. No fixed belay anchors (nor are any needed). Medium sized Trango Ball Nutz and/or BD C3 will protect the crux.
Ian Harris
Las Cruces NM
  5.9
Ian Harris   Las Cruces NM
  5.9
I gave this a 5.9 rating because of the crux. The way I did it felt "direct". There are easier variations that avoid the original crux section. I agree the rest of the route feels 5.6 however. Mar 6, 2016
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
 
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
 
Alternative start:

The route can be started directly from the slab to the left of start of Cross-trainer. Go up the bulge just left of the old ocotillo along narrow cracks. It's about 5.7, a mostly protectable alternative to scrambling.

With the crux being 5.8 or better, it makes sense to look for ways to spice up the rest of the route some, and this is one alternative. The pitch can be led all the way to the normal location of Pitch 1 belay some 20 feet or so below the large block. Aug 28, 2013
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
 
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
 
It is possible to avoid the crux by heading farther right from Pitch 1 belay and running Pitch 2 up the prominent flaring vertical crack to a narrow ledge. A short traverse to the right will take you to another crack, this one leading to a large, comfortable ledge at the Lunch Ledge level. This is a good location for a Pitch 2 belay.

A crack leading up can take you to the standard route or you can walk left to it on the ledge. (You can also easily walk over to the right to Cross-trainer Lunch Ledge.)

I have stayed in the cracks almost all the way, the only exception being the start of the flaring crack where I took the bulge to the left using convenient huecos. The climbing was in the same 5.8+ to 5.9- range as the original crux but had the advantage of being protectable throughout. Feb 15, 2013
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
 
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
 
I found #4 Camelot in the hueco useful for protecting the crux, which I climb to the left of the hueco on small holds. Except for the crux, the entire route is in the 5.6 range or below. Jul 29, 2012
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
Went back and climbed this again. Updated the route on the photo and the description. For P1 & P2,stay away from the gully / crack system on the left and from vertical cracks to the right. P1 and P2 are largely face and slab climbing. Dec 7, 2011
JasonMills
Albuquerque, NM
JasonMills   Albuquerque, NM
Looking at the beta photo, does the gully/crack system not go? It looks like you could just keep going up that to the second belay.

I haven't climbed down here yet, just looking at the beta. Nov 4, 2011