Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,300 total · 14/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Mar 18, 2011
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1: From the table-top ledge, head pretty much straight up towards the roof to the left of the blue line in the below photo. Set a belay somewhere below the roof. 5.4, ~70 feet? [If you set the belay above the roof, there is some risk of a gear belay set around a detached block and a stance within striking distance of a fall from the crux.]


P2: Bypass the roof on its right. Stand on detached block above the roof and ponder the crux. A move or two sees the leader to easier terrain including face / slab climbing past two or three horizontal cracks. Set the belay on a large horizontal crack 5 or 10 feet to the right of a bunch of stick bushes of about a coffin-sized volume. 5.8? ~70 feet? Note: there used to be a good crimper up above for the crux move; it broke off; instead, think "bear hug".

P3: Head up vertical cracks until one can traverse right on a large horizontal crack (3 or 4 inch) for about 8 feet. Face climb up on runout terrain for about 25 feet to a large and flat belay platform with bomber chockstone way at the back. 5.5, ~70 feet?

P3: Traverse right and later up for about 70 feet into a huge cleft or alcove with a substantial roof system. One can use one or two bolts of Cross-trainer along the way. Belay on a very comfortable perch immediately up and right of the alcove - 4 inch and 2 inch gear for anchor. 5.4, unsure pitch length.

P4: Very short - traverse right along a very large crack / ledge for about 30 feet and then up again about as much to a boulder field and belay.

We linked P3 and P4 using a 70 meter rope. Not sure whether a 60 meter rope would make it.

Location Suggest change

Locate the gully in the photo and scramble up about 100 feet. A belay anchor can be set up on a table-top ledge a little to the right.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack up to 5 inches. No fixed belay anchors (nor are any needed). Medium sized Trango Ball Nutz and/or BD C3 will protect the crux.

Photos

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