Punch In The Nose
Avg: 2.4 from 5 votes
Routes in Checkerboard Wall
|Checkmate T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Circus Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cross-trainer T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Green Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|King Me T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Knight's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Lone Piton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Opening Moves T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Pawn's Promotion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Punch In The Nose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Queen's Gambit T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Red Squares T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Ring Leader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Ring Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sotol Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Worth the Effort T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,339 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Bill Lawry on Mar 18, 2011|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionP1: From the table-top ledge, head pretty much straight up towards the roof to the left of the blue line in the below photo. Set a belay somewhere below the roof. 5.4, ~70 feet? [If you set the belay above the roof, there is some risk of a gear belay set around a detached block and a stance within striking distance of a fall from the crux.]
P2: Bypass the roof on its right. Stand on detached block above the roof and ponder the crux. A move or two sees the leader to easier terrain including face / slab climbing past two or three horizontal cracks. Set the belay on a large horizontal crack 5 or 10 feet to the right of a bunch of stick bushes of about a coffin-sized volume. 5.8? ~70 feet? Note: there used to be a good crimper up above for the crux move; it broke off; instead, think "bear hug".
P3: Head up vertical cracks until one can traverse right on a large horizontal crack (3 or 4 inch) for about 8 feet. Face climb up on runout terrain for about 25 feet to a large and flat belay platform with bomber chockstone way at the back. 5.5, ~70 feet?
P3: Traverse right and later up for about 70 feet into a huge cleft or alcove with a substantial roof system. One can use one or two bolts of Cross-trainer along the way. Belay on a very comfortable perch immediately up and right of the alcove - 4 inch and 2 inch gear for anchor. 5.4, unsure pitch length.
P4: Very short - traverse right along a very large crack / ledge for about 30 feet and then up again about as much to a boulder field and belay.
We linked P3 and P4 using a 70 meter rope. Not sure whether a 60 meter rope would make it.