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Routes in Checkerboard Wall

Checkmate T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross-trainer T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King Me T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knight's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lone Piton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opening Moves T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pawn's Promotion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Punch In The Nose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Gambit T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Squares T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ring Leader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ring Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sotol Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worth the Effort T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: Jim Campbell
Page Views: 1,486 total, 10/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Feb 28, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A mixed, mostly bolted climb offering good face climbing and an interesting overlap to surmount. The angle of the rock is just barely enough to make the tiny holds available work. It's the kind of a place where you take every mono because that's going to be the best you are going to get. It is intimidating, but in the end satisfying.

Location

This climb is a short ways northeast of Cross-trainer and can be seen from the 2nd-3rd pitch of that route. To reach the start of the climb requires some 4th class scrambling up to a nice grassy ledge. Start at the ledge and climb an 8' crack to the slab above where the first bolt is found.

The small and somewhat chossy holds make leading this route a challenge, but it can be easily top-roped for an additional fun to be had while rappelling Cross-trainer. Just take the second two-rope rap more to the climber's right below the Lunch Ledge looking for light-colored tat found at the Checkmate bolts.

Two ropes will allow you to rappel the route, but one can also do a traversing rappel to the Cross-trainer and descend that route with a single rope. Alternatively, you can continue climbing up. Getting to the Lunch Ledge of Cross-trainer can be done following a ramp to the left and the crack above it.

Protection

7 bolts and a few small to mid-sized cams/wires. After the 3rd bolt there is a short crack which protects the 30ft to the next bolt. Bolt anchors on a spacious ledge are equipped with manky slings for your rappelling pleasure.

Photos

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Josh Hamling
  5.9
Josh Hamling  
  5.9
You can continue up and left on easy rock to the Lunch Ledge of Cross-trainer in one total pitch with a 60 meter rope.

It's easier to do this if you start from the grassy ledge just below and to climber's right of the pitch two anchor of Cross-trainer. Jan 5, 2009