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Routes in Checkerboard Wall

Checkmate T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross-trainer T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King Me T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knight's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lone Piton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opening Moves T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pawn's Promotion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Punch In The Nose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Gambit T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Squares T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ring Leader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ring Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sotol Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worth the Effort T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 575 total, 4/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Feb 19, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A variation finish to Cross-trainer which can be reached several different ways. It climbs a chimney/offwidth crack system for a pitch up to the summit. Not as difficult as it looks. Starting from a big grassy ledge, climb into a chimney pod. Then stem your way up an off-width section to a small roof. A large chock stone helps get past this section, although the chock wiggles slightly as you crank on it. Easier climbing leads to the top, and keeping to the right will place you at the summit anchors for Cross-trainer.

Location

The Chimney/OW finale can be reached a number of ways. The large grassy ledge at the bottom of this pitch is just around the corner from the old last belay stance on Cross-trainer, about 30 feet above the current last belay there and just under the summit overhangs. A direct route to this ledge climbs the first 70m of Cross-trainer and then climbs left into a parallel crack system for about 80m. This parallel crack system meanders a bit, but is well protected and can be climbed at an easy grade (5.6) with good route-finding techniques. Descend as for Cross-trainer.

Protection

Large pieces are useful, but all the crux moves can be protected with large nuts placed deep in the crack.

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