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Routes in Checkerboard Wall

Checkmate T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross-trainer T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King Me T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knight's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lone Piton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opening Moves T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pawn's Promotion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Punch In The Nose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Gambit T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Squares T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ring Leader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ring Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sotol Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worth the Effort T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 705 total, 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A previously un-named route that leads up the left-central side of the CheckerBoard wall. This route can be done in 3-4 pitches. It begins on the left side of a huge buttress that roughly splits the cliff into two halves. The left side of this buttress has a huge roof which provides an unmistakable landmark.

Scramble up a thorny gully on the left of the buttress to a small grassy ledge beneath a clean slab. Pitch 1: climb the crack system on the left side of the slab. Belay at a ledge beneath a large overlap. Pitch two: surmount the overlap directly at a weakness or traverse right and then up on easier ground to surmount the overlap. Continue up a full rope-length over blocky but easy terrain to a large ledge. Pitch 3: Climb an offwidth directly up to a stance below the final headwall. Puzzle out the move to gain the crack above the headwall, and then continue up wonderful steep crack climbing to ledges near the summit.

Most of the climbing on this route is in the 5.7 range. The third pitch offers the best climbing.

Protection

Standard rack. No anchors exist on this route. There are two sets of rappel anchors on a route a hundred feet to the south. Two double-rope rappels can be achieved this way, but they do not take you to the bottom. Downclimbing easy 5th class may be required if you chose to rappel. The other alternative for a descent are to walk off to the north, or to rappel the "Crosstrainer" route.

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