Avg: 3.1 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||J. Urbain, R. Douglass|
|Page Views:||5,713 total · 44/month|
|Shared By:||John Bregar on Nov 1, 2009|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On July 1, 2020, the New Mexico state governor issued an executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on July 1, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
The feature Boyers Chute Route follows starts as a prominent right-facing corner, becomes a distinct chute for most of the way (even turns into a chimney) then opens up again into a right-facing corner.
Pitch 1: Start about 30 feet to the right of the corner on a more featured part of the sloping terrain. The climbing is easy (5.2), but many climbers may want to rope up to avoid exposed slab moves.
Continue into the chute proper and up it. This is generally best done unroped. Easy, even walkable, terrain is interrupted by harder but short steps. Low height above ground and the closed, chimney-like confines of the chute make climbing feel fairly secure. The stretch of more consistent scrambling is also only 4th class if that. The chute will fork eventually the right fork looking far more inviting as the left one is topped by a large chock stone about 20 feet up. The route goes left!
Pitch 2: There are two options: (1) scramble past the chock stone on the right without protection (5.3, but exposed and with a somewhat crumbly feel to the large-enough and otherwise solid holds near the top) or (2) climb on the left and protect in a crack (about 5.6 and close to vertical). Above the chock another stretch of scrambling follows until a 20-foot chimney is reached.
Pitch 3: Climb the chimney facing right. Exit is to the left into the broken rocks or climb on the right of them. The second block from the bottom is loose. Belay from two new bolts. This pitch is the crux of the route and may feel harder than the 5.4 rating.
Pitch 4: Start all the way left, deep in the corner. Move right on nearly vertical but well featured rock. The path of least resistance will slide a bit to the right, traverse left under the large agave, and continue the rightward slant to a level area with some trees. This pitch is often done unroped by experienced climbers and other variations of it exist as the terrain is generally forgiving.
Pitch 5: The easiest way up from the level area is to head all the way to the right as soon as you step up on the rock, then go left to break in the small headwall and scramble left over piled boulders to reach an easy ridge which takes you to the summit. If you rope up for this pitch, you may belay from the area of the boulders. (Low 5th or high 4th).
As you climb, you will notice rap stations. Rapping the route is possible but not recommended unless you are comfortable scrambling down most of the terrain. It is far faster to take the south side rap route with only two rappels and bushwhack back to the start of the route from there. To do so, go southeast from the summit following cairns to a ramp. Careful, one of the rocks about half way down to the ramp is loose. It's about a foot across and round. Once on the ramp, scramble down it to a bolt+piton rap station. The second rap, from a nice ledge and over some scary looking but actually not that easy to dislodge loose rocks, will take you to the saddle between North and Middle Rabbit Ears. To get back to the bottom of the route, go down the gully and turn right well below the rock (near the bottom of the cliff the brush is fierce). Even better, leave the packs at the bottom of the main Rabbit Ears Canyon to start with and just go down the gully following a trail.
Rapping down the route: If you limit your down climbing to third a class rock, you are looking at about 8 raps. The rap stations are set up and are in good condition, but the vegetated, slabby and featured terrain will force you to use single-rope rappels. Even then hanging up a rope is frustratingly frequent and loose rocks can come down at you at any time.
The top rap station is on a tree just north of the route and below ridge line. Short and fairly clean rap takes you to the flat area. There is some tat there at another tree, but the real station is on the tree all the way to the south. Another good rap goes to a ledge. Scramble along it to the north and a big down to the next station. Slant your next rap a bit north and look to your left (north) for the next station. It's not on much of a ledge, but it's a tree, and it does give you a fairly clear shot to the top of the chimney. The two bolts there are your fourth rap. Do it inside the chock in the chimney. Here you start scrambling down for a bit, then rap again from the horn on top of the chock crux. More scrambling follows, with two raps over the steeper sections, with more scrambling again, and finally one rap at the bottom if you want to avoid getting down the exposed slab. All in all it's a time consuming way down.