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Routes in Southern Comfort Wall

Best Bitters T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Velvet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
DWI T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Easy Steps T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Have a Drink On Me T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Irish Creme T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Lite Beer From Miller T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lowenbrau Light T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Margaritaville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miller High Life T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Shot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zombie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,031 total, 14/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 22, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This route climbs crack systems to the right of Black Velvet.

P1: Start up a thin left facing corner. The crux is about 15' up where the crack thins out and you're forced onto the face to the left. Above another tricky section takes you to easier ground and a bolted belay. 90', 5.8+

P2: Climb the crack past a fixed pin to a ledge. The R&I topo showed a variation to the left at 5.8+ but we took the right hand crack, past another fixed pin, to a ramp at the right side of the Black Velvet roof. Follow this easily right to a rap anchor.

Location

Start about 25' right of Black Velvet

We had a single 60m rope and rapped diagonally right over to a tree with a nest of old slings and then again to the ground. With two ropes you wouldn't need to stop at the tree.

Protection

Standard rack, maybe a few extra small cams.

Photos

quite a bit more challenging than black velvet! May 15, 2016
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
Charlie Cundiff's rating on his topo is 5.9+. I'd say the crux (going straight up, I didn't see another way) is about a point harder than anything you will find on Black Velvet. It is possible to avoid it by starting one corner farther to the right, but then you will have a small roof to content with. It is still somewhat easier though, and more protectable. Dec 17, 2013
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
5.9
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
5.9
We thought this route was better than Black Velvet. Sustained and elegant climbing. It felt about 5.9 to me. Feb 27, 2011
Karl Kiser
  5.9
Karl Kiser  
  5.9
The 5.8+ is the original rating for the first pitch and probably a bit of a sandbag. The crux moves are at the top of the first pitch where the crack stops. If one goes a little left (easier 5.9) and if one goes straight up (easy 5.10). Dec 16, 2006
Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
 
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN  
 
Instead of rappelling diagonally to the right to the tree, you can tend slightly left and you can just barely reach a belay ledge with bolt-anchors (belay ledge for the route, Wild Turkey and "Zombie"). Nov 6, 2006