Edge > Comments

Sep 25, 2020 Cathedral Ledge > Central Wall The British Are Coming 5.9 A3 ● My memory is a little foggy on the specifics of this one (1983), but I remember the nailing being not as ba… View Comment
Sep 20, 2020 Europe > … 1 > Chamonix Mont B… > Aiguilles de Ch… > Aiguille du Peigne > Le Ticket, le Rond, l… (5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c) Racing the long shadows of the afternoon as we near the top of the route, August, 1985. ● Our main campsite for a 2 month stay was located in the talus field between the start of the climb and the… View Comment
Sep 20, 2020 Europe > … 1 > Chamonix Mont B… > Aiguilles de Ch… > Aiguille du Peigne > Le Ticket, le Rond, l… (5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c) Low on the route, August 1985. ● Right after Lycra had taken off in the States, we saw none during our 2 month stay, but were asked countles… View Comment
Jul 25, 2020 Europe > France > .Snow, Ice & Mixed > Mont Blanc Range > Upper Vallée Blanche… Cosmiques Arête 5.6 AI2 M4 Mod. Snow ● A partner and I were camping on the Vallee Blanche prior to an ascent of the Brenda Spur on Mont Blanc when… View Comment
Jul 23, 2016 Lakes Region > New Durham Area (Lon… Mt. Molly ● From North Shore Road, go up a long gradual hill, staying right at a fork, and you will see a clearing on t… View Comment
Apr 30, 2016 Lakes Region > New Durham Area (Lon… Mt. Molly ● Lou, it is very easy to find the Mt Molly access from North Shore Road on Merrymeeting Lake. There is a gat… View Comment
Jul 26, 2015 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Devil's Den > Outcrops The Devil Wears PraNa 5.12+ ● Strong work, Jon! View Comment
Oct 1, 2014 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall > Arete (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c) Climber getting ready to step out onto The Arete on a hot fall day with some foliage starting to show. ● Nice shot! I miss Longstack. View Comment
Jul 31, 2014 Cathedral Ledge > Beast Alcove & Refuse… Whack-A-Mole 5.11a/b X ● Bob, regarding the corner to the left, I am certain that back in the early eighties it was thick in moss an… View Comment
Jul 30, 2014 Cathedral Ledge > Beast Alcove & Refuse… Whack-A-Mole 5.11a/b X ● Jon, that line was nothing special, but as I recall it was a decent addition to the slab as it was similar… View Comment
Jul 29, 2014 Cathedral Ledge > Beast Alcove & Refuse… Whack-A-Mole 5.11a/b X ● Jon, did you also scrub the route to the left, which Webster (3rd edition) lists as Slings & Arrows, 5.9+ R… View Comment
Dec 29, 2013 Canon City > Shelf Rd > Bank > 09. Ethics? What Ethics? Aerial Solution 5.10c ● Does anyone know the details about the route located about 30' right of this one? It had four bolts plus a… View Comment
Nov 5, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall Comfortably Numb 5.9 R ● Jason, sounds epic! I remember looking at that line one day after a rain, watching the water drip off the… View Comment
Nov 4, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall Comfortably Numb 5.9 R ● Jason, nice job! Did you have to scrub a bit prior to the send? If I remember correctly, there was a stri… View Comment
Jul 25, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Rines Hill New route? 5 bolts between middle crack and right ramp. Anyone want to claim it and tell us what it is? ● WTF? I hope the bolter steps forward to identify themselves and try to explain their actions here. View Comment
Jun 19, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall > Steve Garvey Memorial… (5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a) Bitten by the bug, summer of '92. We did the classic Funhouse to Upper Refuse. ● Awesome shot, Jason! View Comment
Jun 7, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall Steve Garvey Memorial Route 5.11c ● Nice job, Jay! That line looked stellar; wish I could have fallen off it before I left. View Comment
May 14, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 4. Wonderland Wall Gentle Violence 5.11+ ● The second and third bolt can seem like a long reach to clip, but my daughter is 5' 3" and had no problem r… View Comment
May 7, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 4. Wonderland Wall The Route Vultures 5.9 ● Someone had to do it, so today Joshua Corbett and I scrubbed a second pitch leading to the top of the cliff… View Comment
Apr 27, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall Raven Song 5.8 ● Now thoroughly scrubbed and with the addition of the Direct Finish, this route is fully deserving of three… View Comment
Apr 24, 2013 Whitehorse Ledge > 06. Echo Roof Dunn's Diversion 5.11b X ● Definitely harder than Future Shock, but I only TR'd Dunn's. Future Shock seems much easier with modern sh… View Comment
Apr 9, 2013 Pawtuckaway > Blair Woods > Scoop Area The Next Message V8 ● Man, Noah, would you mind climbing Walk on the Wild Side at Cannon next? I need move by move beta for pitc… View Comment
Apr 3, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 4. Wonderland Wall The Route Vultures 5.9 ● Sorry Jon, you're new guide isn't even out yet and it already needs an update... View Comment
Mar 28, 2013 Merrimack Valley Massabesic Lake / Lake Ledges ● Sorry Jeremy, that may have been a bit harsh. I would just hate to visit an area based on a bunch of high… View Comment
Mar 28, 2013 Merrimack Valley Massabesic Lake / Lake Ledges ● I used to teach outdoor ed at an alternative middle/high school, and we visited this craglet several times.… View Comment
Mar 26, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall Strychnine 5.9 ● It's quite a place when the full aviary is in action. Besides ravens and vultures, I've already seen red t… View Comment
Mar 26, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall Strychnine 5.9 ● The ravens were just starting to rebuild their nest a couple weeks ago, and it sounds like they are getting… View Comment
Mar 21, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall > Terror Crack (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b) My original logbook entry from the first ascent of "Terror Crack." Don't ask me why I had a cliffhanger on my rack, I probably just bought it and had it on with the rest of my sparse gear selection. ● Yeah, pretty much the whole crew have their own dangerous specialty. We're like the A-Team. View Comment
Mar 20, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall > Terror Crack (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b) My original logbook entry from the first ascent of "Terror Crack." Don't ask me why I had a cliffhanger on my rack, I probably just bought it and had it on with the rest of my sparse gear selection. ● Nope, $40 mail ordered from EMS. 150' long, but it could probably stretch to 200 when loaded. Nice soft c… View Comment
Mar 20, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall > Terror Crack (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b) My original logbook entry from the first ascent of "Terror Crack." Don't ask me why I had a cliffhanger on my rack, I probably just bought it and had it on with the rest of my sparse gear selection. ● It's interesting to note that according to my climbing log, this was my fourth lead ever. The rope was a 1… View Comment
Mar 19, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall Orthanc 5.8 R ● I fully agree Jon. I think time tempered my memory, and our initial exploration of Adventure Punks reminde… View Comment
Mar 17, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall Still Gettin' Booty 5.10a/b ● Nice job on the send! I can't believe it was dry after the previous night's snow. View Comment
Mar 14, 2013 Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall > Terror Crack (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b) Jon Garlough about to launch into the business on "Terror Crack." ● He had the nerve to tell me that my grade of 5.6 from 1979, when it was lead with hexes and stoppers, was s… View Comment
Mar 3, 2013 NH Ice & Mixed > - Lakes Region Ice Pleasant Valley Ice ● " Keep going into the woods and cross over many logging roads. " Yeah, the whole area is riddled with lo… View Comment
Jan 27, 2013 Whitehorse Ledge > 06. Echo Roof Future Shock 5.11b ● You too John? I came within about 35' of freeing that second pitch myself... View Comment
Jan 14, 2013 Cathedral Ledge > N End Exiles in Babylon 5.10 ● Correct; L-R it goes Exiles, Thresher, and then Knights. The first two are fun (when clean) and you can us… View Comment

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