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Routes in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

AP Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alcove Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beast 666 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Browns Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cerberus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Effigy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Energy Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lower Refuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maid in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
On Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T A3
Welton's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whack-A-Mole T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildabeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: gill/callaghan
Page Views: 1,292 total, 12/month
Shared By: john strand on Oct 30, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Not a death route but close. You can fall off and live (ask Tom) just not at the end. Good thing that the crux is near the bolt. Still hard climbing after the bolt though is very dangerous. TR after doing AP.

Location

Left of AP Treat at a small flake the center of 3 one bolt routes.

Protection

A small rp and a bolt

Photos

chinos
  5.11a R
chinos  
  5.11a R
finally lead this thing last night! i have been waiting for the temps to drop and got some cooler temps just before dark. i got a little wigged out at the top when i made the mistake of looking down to see where the bolt was, but was able to finish it up without decking! My first scary route in this grade and i would recommend it to others who like this kind of stuff Aug 3, 2014
Bob A  
I gave it a good first scrub yesterday 7-31-14.The bolt is not there but once we get a bit of rain I will head back to hit it again to try and find the bolt hole.I have an idea of the stance you may have had while drilling although there isn't anything that looked too comfy to stand on for too long!I may try cleaning a bit more to the left of what I did yesterday as you may have taken more of a diagonal line from the left up to the crack.

Yes,that crack will take some great gear just up from the bottom.

Regarding the flake on the left,i figured I must be the only one crazy enough to clean that thing up.Must have had too much time on my hands.Fun little climb though.. Aug 1, 2014
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
Bob, regarding the corner to the left, I am certain that back in the early eighties it was thick in moss and I was more interested in the slab potential, though never took it further than Maid in the Shade because of the work scrubbing. I am also certain that when you clean straight down from the crack, and maybe slightly climber's left (?) that you will see an obvious sloping stance where you can look for the bolt or hole about 7' above that. I think it was just high enough to prevent a ground fall on your way to the crack. Pretty sure the crack took a good piece down low, now that I think about it. Jul 31, 2014
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Time for the traverse ? L-R finishing up AP Treat..it would be the best pro by far Jul 31, 2014
Quote from Strand: "I have led this several times..i guess that means I'm a bit fucked up."

It means you're fucking awesome, John. Well within your abilities. I thought for a second about leading it but the climbing up high is still pretty thin. There's too much time to stop and worry on slabs. Soloing them is seriously heady and bravo to anyone that can do it.

Jim Jul 31, 2014
Bob A  
Edge,
Thanks for the history on this route.I was asking John s and TC about it this year and no one seemed to know much about it.
I have tried looking for that bolt on rappel and I am almost certain it is not there.
Yes that crack near the top will take great gear.I am sure between chinos and myself we can get this cleaned up and restored.
That will make 7 routes to climb in the AP area which should bring some interest and keep it a bit cleaner.
Maybe that bolt is hiding under all that moss!
Also,
any history on that 5.5 flake to the left of Maid in the Shade?
I cleaned it up and led it in May but have not posted anything due to unknown history.
Cheers Jul 31, 2014
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
Jon, that line was nothing special, but as I recall it was a decent addition to the slab as it was similar climbing but shorter, easier, and better pro. I looked for the bolt myself two years ago, from the ground, but couldn't see it for the forest of moss. There was an incipient crack that came down from the top, and the line started below it and followed the path of least resistance to reach it (pretty sure the crack took gear, but once you reached it the hard bit was done). I sorta remember a sloping ledge about 15' (?) off the deck to stand on where I placed a 1/4" x 2 1/2" split shank bolt to protect the next few crux moves. Probably long since plucked out by a passing raven or caterpillar...

And Strand, self awareness is a sign of something, but I'm not sure what. At least you can admit it to yourself. Jul 30, 2014
chinos
  5.11a R
chinos  
  5.11a R
I haven't cleaned it yet, but great to hear the history behind it! I think the bolt is missing or it's hidden under the green carpet somewhere. I will clean it up soon and look for the bolt.! Hope your doing good out there in CO. The east coast crew misses you guys! Jul 30, 2014
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
With further investigation, maybe not the second..jeremy may have beat me to it. i was busy feeding TC beer.

I have led this several times..i guess that means I'm a bit fucked up. Jul 30, 2014
My favorite statistic for this short, dirty, quasi-death route is that John Strand has the second AND third ascents. Jul 30, 2014
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
Jon, did you also scrub the route to the left, which Webster (3rd edition) lists as Slings & Arrows, 5.9+ R, FA unknown? That was one of mine, called "Maid in the Shade" for all the scrubbing I did prior to the FA, done in Spring 1986. I scrubbed it late one day, then the next morning convinced my girlfriend at the time (now wife of 27 years) to belay me while I led it ground up and placed the one bolt on lead. Only time she's ever put on a climbing harness. I thought it was 5.10- PG. Jul 29, 2014
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
maybe sticks & moles ?? or whack a stone Jul 29, 2014
chinos
  5.11a R
chinos  
  5.11a R
also known as sticks and stones.... this area has recently been cleaned! we also updated the bolt on this and the route to the right, Broken Bones (webster) or Piledriver (handren's).
A great top rope. not to many go for the lead tho! Jul 29, 2014
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
yes.. i always go by the original name Jul 18, 2013
Is this the same route listed in Handren's book as Sticks and Stones? That one is similarly 5.11a X and has a similar exciting backstory (Tom Callaghan falling from the top but being kept from a ground fall by Chris Gill). The whole slab left of AP treat is very dirty. Does this start directly up from the flake at the base (see pic)?

Jim Jul 17, 2013