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Routes in The Central Wall

Abrakadabra T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angel's Freeway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Antline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bicycle Route, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
British Are Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Candidus/Frenchman's Fury T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c A3+
Colonial Ambush T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Forest of Fangorn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Fortitude, Pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Intimidation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Passing Thoughts T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Eye, pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Description

The Central Wall is a great area with full length climbs ranging from 5.10 to 5.12, some well over 400ft in length. Most routes climb corners and crack systems.

The classic in this area is Intimidation (5.10b), a killer climb that lives up to its name. The other "classic" is Repentance (5.10b R) which is a full-length chimney that is mossy wet and poorly protected in parts. I think it sounds fun. The wall from the bottom looks intimidating and hard to crack. Many climbs start up the first pitch of Intimidation and break off to become classic routes of their own. Even the sweetest climbs here don't see much traffic, so they can get a little dirty, but you can do your part by climbing them and that will help clean them off.

Climb to the top and walk off. You may also rap the cliff with double ropes from the anchor to the right of the finish of Intimidation (5.10b).

Getting There

This section is marked by the Cathedral Cave on its left and the obvious chimney of Repentance is near the right hand border though it goes a little further.

From the road, follow a trail (not well-marked) to the cave and head right.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Central Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Antline
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 42
Intimidation
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Abrakadabra
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 4
Angel's Freeway
Trad 5 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
White Eye, pitch 1
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Antline
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Intimidation
 42
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 4 pitches
Abrakadabra
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Angel's Freeway
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad 5 pitches
White Eye, pitch 1
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Central Wall »

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