Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 10,629 ft 3,240 m
GPS: 45.853, 6.91284
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 54,322 total · 506/month
Shared By: Rui Ferreira on Jul 31, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Luc-514, David Riley, Bogdan Petre

Description Suggest change

Considered by many to be the birthplace of modern mountaineering, the Mont Blanc range continues to be "the" destination for alpine climbing in all of Europe. A who's who list of 20th century alpinists all cut their teeth on these famous mountains, from Messner to Bonnigton, Cassin, Rebuffat, to more recent stars such as Andy Parkin, Twight, Profit, Berthaud, Damilano, etc. Rebuffat however takes most of the credit for making this a popular destination, first with his mountaineering movies and then by the publication of "The Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 Finest Routes" in 1973. Part coffee table book, part guide book, this publication has probably done the most to initiate alpine careers and dreams. The routes listed in the book were organized from easiest to hardest and provided a measured introduction into alpine climbing from rock to snow and ice. A modern version of this book is "Mont Blanc: les plus belles courses" by Philippe Batoux, published in 2012. Finally available in English, this modern version follows the same approach of listing routes from easiest to most difficult. Some routes from Rebuffat's list are included, but many are new classics and at times safer outings as some of the old Rebuffat routes are not longer safe due to the ever changing nature of glaciers and seracs in the area.

Getting There Suggest change

Chamonix is the gateway to the Mont Blanc range from the French side. The small town of Argentiere, 8km north provides additional access to the northern parts of the range. On the Italian side Courmayeur is the primary point of access to the range.

34 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mont Blanc Range Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Mont Blanc Range

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy Snow PG13
 23
Arête des Bosses / Goûter Route
Snow, Alpine
AI4 M3
 30
Goulotte Chéré
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 8 pitches
AI4 M5+
 8
Vent du Dragon
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
AI2-3 Steep Snow
 12
Tour Ronde North Face
Ice, Snow, Alpine
Mod. Snow
 8
Mont Blanc du Tacul Regular Route
Snow, Alpine
AI2 M2 Easy Snow
 6
Contamine Grisolle
Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Mod. Snow
 7
Trois Monts
Snow, Alpine
WI3+ M5
 5
Pellissier Gully
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 11
Arête à Laurence
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 M4 Mod. Snow
 83
Cosmiques Arête
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI2
 7
Kuffner Ridge (aka Frontier Ridge)
Trad, Ice, Alpine
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c AI3 M4 Steep Snow
 15
Frendo Spur - Aiguille du Midi
Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Arête des Bosses / Goûter R… Mont Blanc N Side
 23
Easy Snow PG13 Snow, Alpine
Goulotte Chéré Upper Vallée Blanche…
 30
AI4 M3 Mixed, Ice, Alpine 8 pitches
Vent du Dragon Aiguille du Midi N Fa…
 8
AI4 M5+ Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Tour Ronde North Face Italian Frontier
 12
AI2-3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Mont Blanc du Tacul Regular… Upper Vallée Blanche…
 8
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Contamine Grisolle Upper Vallée Blanche…
 6
AI2 M2 Easy Snow Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Trois Monts Mont Blanc N Side
 7
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Pellissier Gully Tacul E & Pointe Lach…
 5
WI3+ M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Arête à Laurence Upper Vallée Blanche…
 11
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
Cosmiques Arête Upper Vallée Blanche…
 83
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 M4 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Kuffner Ridge (aka Frontier… Italian Frontier
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI2 Trad, Ice, Alpine
Frendo Spur - Aiguille du Midi Aiguilles de Chamonix…
 15
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c AI3 M4 Steep Snow Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Mont Blanc Range »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments