Elevation: 10,630 ft
GPS: 45.853, 6.913 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 36,794 total · 603/month
Shared By: Rui Ferreira on Jul 31, 2015 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

Description

Considered by many to be the birthplace of modern mountaineering, the Mont Blanc range continues to be "the" destination for alpine climbing in all of Europe. A who's who list of 20th century alpinists all cut their teeth on these famous mountains, from Messner to Bonnigton, Cassin, Rebuffat, to more recent stars such as Andy Parkin, Twight, Profit, Berthaud, Damilano, etc. Rebuffat however takes most of the credit for making this a popular destination, first with his mountaineering movies and then by the publication of "The Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 Finest Routes" in 1973. Part coffee table book, part guide book, this publication has probably done the most to initiate alpine careers and dreams. The routes listed in the book were organized from easiest to hardest and provided a measured introduction into alpine climbing from rock to snow and ice. A modern version of this book is "Mont Blanc: les plus belles courses" by Philippe Batoux, published in 2012. Finally available in English, this modern version follows the same approach of listing routes from easiest to most difficult. Some routes from Rebuffat's list are included, but many are new classics and at times safer outings as some of the old Rebuffat routes are not longer safe due to the ever changing nature of glaciers and seracs in the area.

Getting There

Chamonix is the gateway to the Mont Blanc range from the French side. The small town of Argentiere, 8km north provides additional access to the northern parts of the range. On the Italian side Courmayeur is the primary point of access to the range.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mont Blanc Range

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy Snow PG13
 16
Arête des Bosses / Goûter Route
Snow, Alpine
AI4
 13
Goulotte Chéré
Ice, Alpine 8 pitches
AI2-3 Steep Snow
 10
Tour Ronde North Face
Ice, Snow, Alpine
AI3 M4 Steep Snow
 11
Frendo Spur - Aiguille du Midi
Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Mod. Snow
 5
Mont Blanc du Tacul Regular Route
Snow, Alpine
AI3-4 Steep Snow
 3
Swiss Route - North Face of Les…
Ice, Snow, Alpine
AI2 M2 Easy Snow
 4
Contamine Grisolle
Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Mod. Snow
 5
Trois Mont
Snow, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 5
Arete a Laurance
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 M4 Mod. Snow
 53
Cosmiques Arête
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI2
 6
Kuffner Ridge (aka Frontier Ridge)
Trad, Ice, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Arête des Bosses / Goûter R… Vallée Blanche Basin
 16
Easy Snow PG13 Snow, Alpine
Goulotte Chéré Vallée Blanche Basin
 13
AI4 Ice, Alpine 8 pitches
Tour Ronde North Face Vallée Blanche Basin
 10
AI2-3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Frendo Spur - Aiguille du Midi Aiguilles de Chamonix…
 11
AI3 M4 Steep Snow Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Mont Blanc du Tacul Regular… Vallée Blanche Basin
 5
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Swiss Route - North Face of… Argentière Basin
 3
AI3-4 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Contamine Grisolle Vallée Blanche Basin
 4
AI2 M2 Easy Snow Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Trois Mont Vallée Blanche Basin
 5
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Arete a Laurance Vallée Blanche Basin
 5
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
Cosmiques Arête Vallée Blanche Basin
 53
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 M4 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Kuffner Ridge (aka Frontier… Vallée Blanche Basin
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI2 Trad, Ice, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Mont Blanc Range »

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