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Routes in 2. Indigenous Wall

An Aztec Nightmare T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Begginer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Comfortably Numb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Earth and Sky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gloaming, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanta Yo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Islands T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Heroes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Man Eater T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Midnight Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Midnight Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Onslaught T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orthanc T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pirates of Longstack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Raven Song T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rawhide T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Relic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sacred Fire T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spirit Guide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Still Gettin' Booty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stroke, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Strychnine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suicide Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sweat Lodge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tardis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Terror Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toltec Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Underground T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way of the Peaceful Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wayback Machine, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Jason Denver 11/3/2013
Page Views: 322 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jason Denver on Nov 3, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This takes a pretty direct line in between Suicide Wall and Strychnine. Although some of the moves are close to Strychnine in the first 30 feet, it's a completely independent line. Pull on the wall with a somewhat stout start and connect the flake features that lead up the wall with some thin sections in betweeen. Pull over a bulge on big holds and crimp up the final slab that has a tiny dike running up it to the anchor.

Location

Start in front of the large oak tree between the starts of Suicide Wall and Strychnine. Climb to the anchor shared by the other two routes. Either lower from there or do the second pitch of one of the other routes.

Protection

This route can be toproped from the two ring bolt anchor after climbing Suicide Wall or Strychnine. Nuts and double cams through from red c3 to .5 and a .75 do pretty good

Photos

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EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
Jason, sounds epic! I remember looking at that line one day after a rain, watching the water drip off the lichen; guess I was in a contemplative mood or possibly under the influence of something. Sounds like bolts would not be out of character with the rest of the cliff and won't effect the neighboring routes, so I am sure whatever you decide will be perfect. Next time I'm east of the Mississippi I'll have to give it a go; still need to hit up Wonderland, Garvey Memorial, and send Gentle Violence too while I'm at it.

Joshua, I gave up my tiny little partial stewardship of the cliff when I ran away to Boulder, but I know it is in the capable hands of the Chinos. Looks good seeing your location as Wolfeboro, BTW! I miss the whole crew. Cheers ! Nov 5, 2013
Jason Denver  
 
Hey Loran. I had been looking up at this for a while thinking I should try it ground up and clean on the lead... good thing I didnt. I spent three evenings after work for a total of about 6 hours cleaning this as well as the 2nd pitch area of Suicide and Strychnine as I passed through on rap. I chucked off many loose blocks up there, as well as removed dirt ledges and stuff, in my opinion improving this section of the cliff. As I cleaned up the lichen that was left between the routes and uncovered the line, I realized that it would be super-sketch on gear. I toproped the route twice in the dark to see how it would climb and where the bolts would go. I estimated a total of 5-6 would be necessary to make it "safe" in my opinion. Then after toproping it once in the daylight I thought the hard parts are "reasonably" well protected in that you wouldnt hit the ground if you fell and decided to go for a lead. I was really scared even though I had just cruised it on TR and subsequently tore some stuff in my fingers because I was way overgripping on the long runout to the anchor. LOL. I'm fine with leaving it as is or not. I agree, Raven Song is a great route. I've done it 3 times in the last month or two and Steve said its one of the best routes at its grade out there. Thanks for your input! Nov 5, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Loran, I don't think that a bolt will sucker people away from the other climbs, all three of the climbs are great climbs one more would make a great little section. The majority of climbers that I have spoke to out there are not up for bold leads, but I am just a wimp so I think it could go either way. Its up to Jay to add the bolt or not but you have a good point of just leaving it the way it is. Your opinion dose matter you pioneered the place so it counts.

And yes Raven Song dose get done, people say its harder than 5.7 though.

My opinion is add the bolt, because Black Out only has 3 assent and it has a R next to it and that's a fun little line. Nov 4, 2013
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
Jason, nice job! Did you have to scrub a bit prior to the send? If I remember correctly, there was a strip of lichen between Strychnine & Suicide that likely is the line of your ascent? Cool features in there, congrats for linking them on gear.

I trust your opinion on adding bolts, not that my opinion matters much. That is a great section of wall, and being able to roll off the log hangout and hit multiple lines is a great addition. If it were me, I would keep it as a TR/bold lead so people don't get suckered off the other routes and over to the bolts, but I can't recall exactly how close they would be. Your call...

Does anyone ever get on Raven Song? I really liked that one, and gives a good fourth route option in the area as well as an alternate second pitch which is different in character than the rest of the wall and slightly reminiscent of Cannon. Nov 4, 2013
Jason Denver  
 
I was interested in adding bolts to this to make it a fun/safe lead for everyone, but after checking it out a few times it became a headpoint lead for me. Id like to hear from the public if it seems like a squeeze job to have bolts on it. I was envisioning them on the left side of the climbing at the bottom, keeping everything far from its neighbor to the right. When the ropes are strung up on these 3 climbs they run parallel to each other about 15 feet apart all the way to the anchor. Nov 4, 2013