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Routes in 6. Echo Roof

Aiwass T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ancient Artifacts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Answered Prayers S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avenger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bit's N Pieces T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carolina Dreamin' T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Dunn's Diversion T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Echo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ethereal Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Circle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Future Shock T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Holy Land (aka "Promised Land") T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ladies & Gentlemen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Last Tango T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Loose Lips T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Man's Best Friend S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Persona T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Relic Hunter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return to Innocence T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seventh Seal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Order T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleeping Beauty T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swinging Hips T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unwanted Guests T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Up Rope S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wizard Of Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: FFA Alain Comeau, Steve Larson
Page Views: 5,645 total · 41/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 9, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Balance your way up the dike as you will your feet to stick. Hand holds are almost non-existent, and foot work is technical and fun. The bolts are not "sport climb" close, but skidding down the wall isn't dangerous so long as you wear pants. As far as aesthetic lines go, they don't get prettier than this.

Pitch 1: Follow the dike described above. You will encounter a slippery crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts. After the crux it eases up slightly, but don't let your guard down. One more quite hard move gains a good edge below the anchor, mantle and take a deep breath.

Pitch 2: Rarely done. Step left from the belay to a solution pocket. Aid past 3 bolts, mantle on the ledge, and belay from a tree on the right.

Location

Between Ethereal Buttress (Ethereal Crack, 5.10d) and Echo Roof. You can't miss it.

Protection

Quickdraws for first pitch. May need gear for second pitch. Two rope rap from ledge.

Photos

GoBotRocker
Spfld, Ma
GoBotRocker   Spfld, Ma
It's a gorgeous line. If you time it right, there's a free biner for your effort. I have to say thanks to Ben R. for being so relentless about getting us onto this climb. Maybe when I grow up I'll make it from #3 to #4 on the 1st attempt. Until then I'll be more than overjoyed to get my butt repeatedly handed to me. Gear Beta, a Red Bull for the belayer, "keep a weather eye". Apr 15, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
A killer climb.... I just sent yesterday (I tried it once last year).... A very slippery and technical climb, and it's not over after bolt #4, though getting there is the crux for sure.... It's cool to have such a hard route with pretty much no hand holds to speak of.... Highly recommended.... Jul 5, 2007
Ladd    
Evil Slab! Jul 6, 2007
Love, love, love it despite the fall between the 3rd and 4th bolt. It doesn't end until the chain anchor either, which is not to mention a mantel to the chains. It's great to find a route that is not all about power! Nov 6, 2007
john strand
southern colo
  5.11a/b
john strand   southern colo
  5.11a/b
When Al Comeau was trying to free this route, he took a lot of time(remember EB's) . We wanted him to re-name the route "inchworm". Jul 1, 2008
Bjorn
WNC
Bjorn   WNC
Hell yess. Sep 18, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
In Ed Webster's book this route is rated 5.11c and in the Jerry Handren book it gets 5.11a. I think its a really hard one to rate due to its slippery nature. If you hit the right foot holds and nail the right body positions its not too bad, if anything is off, so are you. I called it 5.11c because its hard, but if you are a slab queen (or king) you might just walk it... When i climb it i could care less what they grade it I'm just happy to clip the next bolt or if I'm really lucky, the chains... Sep 20, 2009
john strand
southern colo
  5.11a/b
john strand   southern colo
  5.11a/b
Gotta remember the inside out right foot cross step and the crux goes better. Sep 30, 2009
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
  5.11c
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
  5.11c
this is by far my favorite .11 i like how it is a more of a technical climb rather that power and pump. i love the cross step movements and the crux is thin and slippery but very fun. anywhere after the second bolt makes a safe fall. i took one whip the first time going through the crux (bolt 3 to 4) and it was by far the safest slab fall i've had with no skidding on the slab. Oct 21, 2010
Steve Thomas  
 
youtube.com/watch?v=i1rYCCb…

Video of Futureshock send. Nov 25, 2012
john strand
southern colo
  5.11a/b
john strand   southern colo
  5.11a/b
Nice ! Always gotta remember to get to the belay before the water seeps get you. i love that the only real hold on the route is the belay ledge Nov 25, 2012
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
The falls on this are suprisingly fun and safe after the second bolt. There is no longer a second pitch. Bolts were chopped. Jan 25, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Anyone know if the second pitch was ever climbed free? Jan 25, 2013
john strand
southern colo
  5.11a/b
john strand   southern colo
  5.11a/b
Chopped ? Really ? I almost got P2 free around '90 or so. It will go for sure, 13a or so.
Maybe they fell out Jan 26, 2013
Edge
Between Nederland and Boulder,
  5.11a
Edge   Between Nederland and Boulder,
  5.11a
You too John? I came within about 35' of freeing that second pitch myself... Jan 27, 2013
john strand
southern colo
  5.11a/b
john strand   southern colo
  5.11a/b
A bit closer to 3.5' really.very close but no go. Mar 4, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
No handholds. No footholds. The perfect hard slab climb. If the wind is gusting above about 3 mph, watch out. Yep, it's that delicate. And this is one of those routes where temperature and humidity really matter (55 degrees with air as dry as a bone is perfect). Get on it! It's brilliant! May 14, 2014
Cron
Barrington, NH
 
Cron   Barrington, NH
 
Such a beautiful line. I took several whips just past the 3rd bolt before figuring out the delicate steps. Very clean falls by slab standards. Classic! Apr 18, 2016
Hans LaCasse
Canaan, New Hampshire
Hans LaCasse   Canaan, New Hampshire
Imagine standing there and hand drilling the bolts! Oct 17, 2016
john strand
southern colo
  5.11a/b
john strand   southern colo
  5.11a/b
In EB's no less (well before sticky rubber) Alain was really good driller.

Try the route under Future Shock,, we drilled that one from stances as well. Oct 17, 2016

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