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Routes in Rines Hill

Arete Problem V1 5
Aron A Aronson V0 4
Bear Naked V2 5+
Blood Diamond V6 7A
Buddha, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Direct V2-3 5+
Cave Traverse V6 7A
Diagonal V1 5
Dirty Bird T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dyke Steps T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Dyke with a Heart TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Everything's Groovy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Fat Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flake Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flakes V2 5+
Granite State V1 5
Have an Ort T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
High Ball V0+ 4+
Just Visiting V2+ 5+
Layback Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moss Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Snuffleupagus V1 5
No name V1 5
Old Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Squeeze Box V4+ 6B+
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Little Dike V1 5
Time for Funk V0 4
Trail Boulder V1-2 5
Trail side traverse V1 5
Traverse Route Left Finish S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Traverse Route Right Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tree Slab V-easy 3
Two Cracks V0 4
Well, The T V4-5 6B+
Shared By: chinos on Mar 29, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

Rines Hill is located in Alton, NH. The cliff is mostly trad and has a few overhanging sport routes. The cliff is about 40 feet at the max. This is a great area for moderate crack lines. All the routes can be toproped from trees above. Lots of boulders in the area.

Getting There

update: We met the new owner of the land along the access from Rines Rd this weekend. He asked that climbers stop crossing his land - use the approach from the road in to Knights Pond that Dale K has described.

Dale K approach: An easy approach that I used to use 15 years ago or so, when I climbed and hunted there. From the Knights Pond access road, at the height of land from the gate on Rines Road,( 40 yards or so) simply take a left and stay on the high point of the ridge, you bump into the rock eventually. My old trail has grown in but it might be time to re-establish it.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rines Hill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Spencer Nowak
Dover, NH
Spencer Nowak   Dover, NH
We met the new owner of the land along the access from Rines Rd this weekend. He asked that climbers stop crossing his land - use the approach from the road in to Knights Pond that Dale K has described. May 9, 2016
Dale K  
An easy approach that I used to use 15 years ago or so, when I climbed and hunted there. From the Knights Pond access road, at the height of land from the gate on Rines Road,( 40 yards or so) simply take a left and stay on the high point of the ridge, you bump into the rock eventually. My old trail has grown in but it might be time to re-establish it. Aug 14, 2015
The hillside leading up to rines cliff has been logged and the climbers path has been obliterated. To get to the cliff, hike uphill treading slightly left until you meet the ridge crest. Then walk left along the ridge until you meet the cliff. It's pretty hard to miss if you stay on the high ground. Should take no longer than 10 minutes from the road. Apr 28, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Maybe I'm a noob but I crossed the road from the pull-off and couldn't quite identify a climber's trail. There was flagging tape here and there and I also saw boundary markers (I assume for the Knights Pond Conservation Land). I'm sure I could have just wandered up the hill but I went over to Longstack instead. Btw Spencer, the approaches to Longstack make use of those logging roads so I wouldn't worry much. With that said, I'm not sure what the official word is. Apr 25, 2014
Spencer Nowak
Dover, NH
Spencer Nowak   Dover, NH
Drove by on the way to Longstack this weekend and it looks like there's a logging operation where the trail used to be. Anyone hiked up there lately? Apr 24, 2014
chinos  
after seeing this newly bolted route i have decided to remove the bolts. sorry to any one offended by these actions. As a group of locals who have been climbing in the area for over 30 years, we think the bolts should be removed.

This is a squeeze job that is way over bolted and takes away from the crag and crack line just to the right. I am all for people adding new lines to the area, but try to consider the ethics of the area.

I hate being a dick, but this has really pissed a lot of people off Jul 29, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
I agree Jon but I dont think begginers are going to lead this one. Plus nothing like a squze job. Jul 25, 2013
chinos  
To all fellow new routers,

I would like to ask that you please consider the ethics of the new durham area when adding new lines. I am all for new routing, but adding a 5 bolt 35' route in a minimally bolted area is a bit overboard.

There are many great arete features that have been climbed and left as top rope routes. The crag would look like shit littered with bolts and im sure the land owner would not appreciate it.

Because Rines is a great begginer crag i think the route should stay bolted. I hope it was set up for a first time lead!

Please remember that this crag has been climbed at for over 40 years! I don't want to be the asshole chopping your route:)

Thanks,

Jonathan Garlough Jul 25, 2013
Schmidster
Kennebunkport, Maine
Schmidster   Kennebunkport, Maine
What is the new bolted route to the right of fat crack? Jul 22, 2013
Spencer Nowak
Dover, NH
Spencer Nowak   Dover, NH
Great climbing! I added a rap station behind Casual Crack/Standard Route - independent webbing loops but only 1 rap ring. If anyone wants to throw a quicklink on for redundancy, I’d appreciate it. Jun 15, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Thanks for the info! I will post the other routes soon, as for the other areas I have hiked out to Mt. Molly and Longstack and am eagerly awaiting climbing at both!

I have climb all the route at Rines under 5.10 now and I have to say my favorites are Casual Crack, Layback Cracks, Right Ramp (for the spice a the beginning;) ) Aug 30, 2012
chinos  
hey matt, the route with one bolt is called Dirty Bird and the one with two bolts is called the Buddha. glad to see people in the area. check out the other crags! Aug 27, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Cool, I climbed them he other day and I plan on adding the to the database, if anyone knows the names please let me know! Aug 21, 2012
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Well they are two routes bolted by Brad White from North Conway for the Brewster kids,I dont know there names but they go about 5.7,5.8. Aug 20, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Anyone know what the two routes to the left of moss face and right of standard route are? The left of the two has one bolt and the right f the two has two bolts... The left hand one has a fixed anchor. Any help will be great help! Aug 19, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Thanks, Soon. Yes, those Fixe steel rings are very nice. If going on the ends of chain, you will need a quicklink on each also to connect the rings. If no chain is needed, then a quicklink and ring on each bolt is a great set up.

If those aluminum rings Soon mentions are the ones I am thinking of, they are fat and pretty strong, but they are hollow, so can not handle much wear at all, as he mentioned. I don't see the point in them except maybe to carry on a long adventure climb where you may have to set up an emergency rap anchor.

The 1/2" quicklinks are relatively cheap, can be found at most hardware stores, have enough thickness to handle a lot of wear, and are easily replaceable. I have also used single links of 1/2" logging chain on the bottom as an alternative to the Fixe rings. May 4, 2011
S. Neoh  
I am trying to be helpful here; I have read that these days most developers consider 3000 pounds (or 14 kN) to be the minimum requirement for a single anchor piece and almost all rap stations have two or more of these pieces. 1/2" plated steel quick link has 3200 pounds rating I believe and 3/8" SS quick link has about the same. This is how Mark came up with his recommendations of 1/2" or 3/8".

I just saw that REI sells rap rings made from a single piece of Al (no joint). These have a rating of > 15 kN each. But with all Al rings, abrasion (think dirt and sand on rope running through the rings) can be a real hazard, no matter what the rating is when they are new.

Update: I just found 7/16" steel rap rings from Fixe (8000+ pounds rating) for the same price as Al rap rings from REI. You might want to use the steel ones if your heart is set on rings, and not quick links. Mark, I saw and rapped off quite a few of these Fixe steel rings down at RRG last year. They are very widely used down there.

Stay safe. May 3, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I hope you are joking. If not, somebody rip that crap out of there and get some 1/2" quicklinks, or at least 3/8". Aluminum rap rings are trash. May 3, 2011
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Brand new just got them that day.They hold up to 1750lbs said the tag.So as long as your only lowering off there shouldn't be a problem. May 3, 2011
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
Joshua how reliable are the rap rings on the chains you put up on middle crack? May 3, 2011
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
I put the chains on middle crack to get your rope down eaiser so you dont have to walk all the way around.Tne bolts have been there for years. May 3, 2011
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
joshua i think i know what climb you are talking about. if it is the one with the bold about 15 feet up it was cleaned and bolted by Brad white for the summer program at Brewster Academy over last summer.

by the way does anyone now who but chains and or who bolted the anchor on the top of the "amphitheater" area? just about 50 ft climbers right of dyke with a heart May 2, 2011
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
There is a new route up with one bolt and top anchors, felt like a 5.7. Anyone know what this is? May 2, 2011
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
GPS coordinates N43 32.154 W71 10.969 Apr 26, 2010
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
No problem here Patrick,first ascent are a touchy subject because there is always someone who says that they were here first.I will be out there tomorrow to Friday after 4:15 if you want to get out there and climb. Apr 26, 2010
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
ya sorry for being such an ignorant person and i do realize that this is not all about who has the first Ascent. its climbing and were are here to inform the community. now reading my post i see that it was not reasonable for me to post it. sorry for trashing you jon. so lets stick to the peace you talk of. Apr 25, 2010
chinos  
boys, boys, boys..... I posted these routes to document them, and let people know about the area. I gave the routes discriptive names and did not post a first ascent for obvious reasons (old bolts, cracks). The overhanging wall has some FA's, but we will stick to the theme....
peace
-chinos- Apr 25, 2010
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
To get technical this area was climbed frequently in the 70's by Bob Varney and friends.So Jon Fouser may have a few FA's but very unlikly.That is why I don't put first ascents on the routes I post unless I scrub 20 or so years of dirt and plant life off of it,or know from the source that they have the first ascent.And knowing chinos (Jon) he is very informed at the routes that he post. Apr 25, 2010
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
hey i love what you guys have down with this area but if i'm not mistaken all the routes were set by Jon Fouser and a few Brewster kids in 2000. they didn't bolt anything they just had al natural anchors. therefore, you guys don't have the first ascents but if i'm not mistaken you guys do have some of the first free ascents. Apr 24, 2010
jimmi jazz
Denver co
jimmi jazz   Denver co
the climbing here is great. the only place i know of around here that has vertical cracks . great trad climbs wish they were longer. Mar 29, 2010

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