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Routes in 6. Echo Roof

Aiwass T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ancient Artifacts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Answered Prayers S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avenger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bit's N Pieces T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carolina Dreamin' T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Dunn's Diversion T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Echo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ethereal Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Circle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Future Shock T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Holy Land (aka "Promised Land") T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ladies & Gentlemen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Last Tango T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Loose Lips T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Man's Best Friend S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Persona T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Relic Hunter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return to Innocence T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seventh Seal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Order T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleeping Beauty T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unwanted Guests T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Up Rope S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wizard Of Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Toproped by Jim Dunn, Spring 1980 Led by John Bouchard, Fall 1983
Page Views: 1,056 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Great hard friction practice. Glide up the spotless face between Seventh Seal and Ethereal Crack. The easiest access to the anchors is via The Beelzebub Corner.

Location

Just beyond The Echo Roof itself lies a giant leaning flake, The Ethereal Crack Buttress. This route climbs the barren face between the two finger cracks on the buttress.

Protection

A toprope problem. Bouchard "led" this route with hooks and screamers for protection.

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there is just no way that the direct line in Dunn's is 12, ive climbed this a bunch of times and its only slightly harder than future shock, which is 11a/b at best. Last Tango is much harder than both but is a short burly boulder problem. try bits and pieces above Loose Lips, if you think that dunn's is 12 then you will find this quite the challenge, strando says the falls are clean. I wouldnt know, I didnt fall.... May 5, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Now I want to try unwanted guests. And ego trip, and rapid transit. I just feel good with steep slabs I guess. I like them. Apr 24, 2013
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
Definitely harder than Future Shock, but I only TR'd Dunn's. Future Shock seems much easier with modern shoes and should be downgraded; it felt on grade in EBs. John, Aiwass is awesome, though I fell a bit short personally on it. Hella fun though, and some fun climbing above as well. Apr 24, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
It kinda felt harder than future but probably because it was more sustained vs a short section. Kinda felt easier too cause it wasnt secure. I like this better than Future Shock Apr 24, 2013
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Wow.. 12??? NO...Shit i wonder what Unwanted Guests will get rated now ??

Next time , try Aiwass just above.. really old school that may be atouch more than 12A I guess Apr 24, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Old school 11b? More like modern 12? Hard. Almost onsighted it... Only fell twice. Apr 23, 2013
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
RUMORED to have had side runner in Ethereal during the first lead. Sep 2, 2010