Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Toproped by Jim Dunn, Spring 1980 Led by John Bouchard, Fall 1983
Page Views: 1,145 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Great hard friction practice. Glide up the spotless face between Seventh Seal and Ethereal Crack. The easiest access to the anchors is via The Beelzebub Corner.

Location

Just beyond The Echo Roof itself lies a giant leaning flake, The Ethereal Crack Buttress. This route climbs the barren face between the two finger cracks on the buttress.

Protection

A toprope problem. Bouchard "led" this route with hooks and screamers for protection.

Photos

- No Photos -
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
RUMORED to have had side runner in Ethereal during the first lead. Sep 2, 2010
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Old school 11b? More like modern 12? Hard. Almost onsighted it... Only fell twice. Apr 23, 2013
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Wow.. 12??? NO...Shit i wonder what Unwanted Guests will get rated now ??

Next time , try Aiwass just above.. really old school that may be atouch more than 12A I guess Apr 24, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
It kinda felt harder than future but probably because it was more sustained vs a short section. Kinda felt easier too cause it wasnt secure. I like this better than Future Shock Apr 24, 2013
Edge
R.I.P.
Edge   R.I.P.
Definitely harder than Future Shock, but I only TR'd Dunn's. Future Shock seems much easier with modern shoes and should be downgraded; it felt on grade in EBs. John, Aiwass is awesome, though I fell a bit short personally on it. Hella fun though, and some fun climbing above as well. Apr 24, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Now I want to try unwanted guests. And ego trip, and rapid transit. I just feel good with steep slabs I guess. I like them. Apr 24, 2013
there is just no way that the direct line in Dunn's is 12, ive climbed this a bunch of times and its only slightly harder than future shock, which is 11a/b at best. Last Tango is much harder than both but is a short burly boulder problem. try bits and pieces above Loose Lips, if you think that dunn's is 12 then you will find this quite the challenge, strando says the falls are clean. I wouldnt know, I didnt fall.... May 5, 2013