Elevation: 1,066 ft
GPS: 43.503, -71.17 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,757 total · 202/month
Shared By: chinos on Oct 21, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

The crags are located on top of Mt. Molly. The area can be located from several directions, but the easiest is to follow directions to Devils Den. The cliffs range from 30-80 feet tall, and offer excellent views of Merrymeeting Lake. Mount Molly has four distinct sections of cliff, Right End, Satellite Wall, Central Wall, and the Left End.

Getting There

You can walk to Mt. Molly from Devils Den in about 20-25 minutes. If you have 4WD drive past the parking lot for Devils Den and take a right at the T. Continue up over the hill and down the other side to a swamp. Go up the hill on the road to a grass pull off on the left with a private road, park here. Walk up the private road for 75 yards and then turn left at a cairn onto a logging road. Follow the logging road for 10 min. At set of cairns turn right into the woods on a climbers trail. Walk to the left of a dirty north facing slab and follow the trail to the top of the mountain about 5 minutes. The trail will bring you up to the Right End.

July 2018 NOTE: The "Class 6" road mentioned for Devil's Den in MtnProject & in the Chinos Guidebook is CLOSED TO VEHICLES AT THE GATE; thus requiring at least an additional 1 1/2 mile walk.  I say "at least" because there is also "No Parking" signs around the gate, although when we were there a pickup was parked there. Speaking with more "local" climbers at Longstaff, this seems to have been the status for a couple of years now; hence unlikely to change. R Hall NH Admin.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Molly

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Metalblade
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Metalblade Right End
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
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