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Routes in Left End

Arete, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cowboy's From Hell S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Daddy's Day Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flake Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flakes and Dykes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killing Time in the Crystal City T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Molly's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shaman Moves T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thanks to the Nubbins S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 104 total · 1/month
Shared By: Edge on Jul 30, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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The face between "Cowboys From Hell" and "Daddy's Day Out." Begin immediately left of a beech tree, and climb straight up, then slightly left past a huge natural thread and a crystal filled pocket that gives the route it's name. Really fun moves with a couple distinct mini cruxes.


Just left of Daddy's Day Out is a line of pockets and intermittent dike steps. The route is about 10' to the right of Cowboys From Hell.


Perfect protection just where you need it with Tricams to size 2 and a natural thread.


Edge   R.I.P.
I didn't see this route listed, although it's entirely possible that it has been done previously. Anyway, I named it after a song from Hot Tuna, which if you haven't listened to their album "Double Dose" stoned, well, you probably should. Killing Time in the Crystal City Jul 30, 2011
jimmi jazz
Denver co
jimmi jazz   Denver co
If I'm right you're the first to climb it. nice job! glad to see new routes getting put up. Aug 1, 2011
Edge   R.I.P.
I thought so, but it's proximity to Cowboys From Hell made me wonder. Assuming that Cowboys was bolted on rappel, it would have been easy to spy this line of pockets and the big thread as a route. I used a small stick to clear off some loose lichen on key holds, then wore through an already holey sock drying a few more holds prior to the send (it had rained hard the night before.) I also have my eye on another line that looks like it will go at hard 10, but we ran out of time.

And thanks, Jim, for all of your (and others) hard work establishing routes in the area! Aug 2, 2011
Hey Loran, the route has been climbed but the name kicks ass! i grew up listening to my dads hot tuna vinyls. i climbed the route awhile back and assumed that someone had climbed it before me to. The route is really cool and that thread is one of a kind for the area! Keep doing more lines. Hope to climb with you guys soon... Aug 2, 2011
Edge   R.I.P.
I changed the FA info to reflect that it had been done previously, but kept the name for the time being for documentation purposes. If anyone else wants to claim the FA, then I will be happy to make any necessary changes. Aug 3, 2011

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