Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 4. Wonderland Wall

Blackout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cleaning up the Scraps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Coyote Rain T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Do You Want Your Pant Legs? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Evening Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gentle Violence T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gold Lion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mighty Quinn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rona's Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Route Vultures, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Stack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Speck In My Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trifecta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Weston's Syrup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Winter Classic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonderland T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Jonathan Garlough
Page Views: 1,055 total · 15/month
Shared By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb up a short unprotected slab to the bolt line. Clip a bolt from the ledge and move up to the right facing arch and make the second clip. (A small cam between bolts can help ease the mind for the second clip). Strenuous moves lead to the third clip and the crux moves on the blank slab. Gain a flake and another bolt and continue up past one more bolt on an easier face with a brief run-out to the bolt anchor on the roof.
A second pitch project pulls the roof to another bolt and joins Gold Lion to finish.

Location

The bolt line

Protection

bolts, Maybe a couple cams
As of today 6/13/16 a good size horizontal horn, about a foot and a half above and left of the second bolt, broke off while my friend was leading it. Said hold almost cleaned my clock but came to rest on the big ledge (where it still rests). My friend decided to down climb and back clean. This may alter the character of the route. I'll try to upload a picture for reference.


Jun 13, 2016
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
  5.11+
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
  5.11+
The second and third bolt can seem like a long reach to clip, but my daughter is 5' 3" and had no problem reaching the second bolt; the third was a bit harder as it involved a strenuous one arm lock off to reach. Very clippable for everyone. May 14, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
This route is going to be the route to do for those who can climb this grade fun moves throughout the climb! Apr 4, 2013
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
  5.11+
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
  5.11+
Absolutely beautiful route; delicate feet with powerful crimps and one desperate high step. I peeled at the crux a couple times, inches away from the good holds and the onsight, then yarded through that quarter of a move to finish. Next time I will try when I am a bit more fresh.

Gear notes: a 3/8 - 1/2" cam is helpful after the first bolt to keep you from hitting a ledge should you blow the long reach to bolt #2. Above the last bolt the climbing eases significantly, but a 1" cam will be welcomed by some. Oct 27, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11+
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11+
fun interesting route... and very well named... The only thing that kept me on the wall was a steady string of cursing through the crux... i played with the move on the way down and it felt much more reasonable... great fun! Jul 5, 2012
Best hard route on the cliff, unique movement, tricky pro and clipping stances, and a very puzzling crux create a instant classic for the area. Crux is very short but awkward. Jul 4, 2012