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Routes in 4. Wonderland Wall

Adventures with Browdog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cleaning up the Scraps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Coyote Rain T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Do You Want Your Pant Legs? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Evening Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gentle Violence T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gold Lion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mighty Quinn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rona's Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Route Vultures, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Stack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Speck In My Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trifecta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Weston's Syrup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Winter Classic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonderland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Chris Magness, Jason Magness & Dave Weston
Page Views: 149 total · 2/month
Shared By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The climb starts just right of the obvious flake system. Climb directly up the slab face past 2 bolts to a short easy corner with marginal gear. Move up to the overlap and clip a bolt. Make nice delicate moves up to a horizontal under the roof and clip a bolt above. Pull the fun roof to a ledge with a bolt anchor.

Location

Just right of the big flake

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

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There are two lines here, a traverse under the roof and a direct finish. The traverse under the roof is called Short Stack and the direct finish is Weston's syrup.

Short Stack climbs past three bolts to the roof, crux at a shallow overlap at the third bolt, and traverses left under a second roof to join a finger crack back right. Probably .10 a/b. Jason Magness, Chris Magness

Weston's Syrup pulls the second roof directly passing one additional bolt. .10+ if you figure out the beta, into the .12 range if you don't.
Chris Magness, Jason Magness, Dave Weston Jun 23, 2012

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