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Routes in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

AP Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alcove Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beast 666 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Browns Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cerberus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Effigy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Energy Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lower Refuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maid in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
On Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T A3
Welton's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whack-A-Mole T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildabeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Description

These areas are often listed separately but they share an approach trail and are separated from all other sections of the cliff.

This area is often overlooked. For example I had done almost every classic up to 5.10 at Cathedral before even hiking up to check out this nice hidden corner. People climb here for sure but it doesn't see near as much traffic as the much easier to stumble upon Lower Left Wall. When moderates on the popular walls are packed think about getting on Browns Fist 5.7+ or Lower Refuse 5.8. Or if its hard cracks you are looking for look no further, climbs here range from 5.7+ to 5.13c.

Rainy days can be a drag for crack climbers but here is one little ray of hope. The start of The Beast is normally dry in the rain and offers two 5.10s with a convenient lower off or toprope anchor.

Getting There

Located on a ledge above a slab to the left of the start of Recompense, access this area by hiking toward that route and breaking left up a small trail which will lead you straight to the huge corner that holds Browns Fist. Scramble one ledge up and to your right and you will find your self standing in the belly of the Beast Alcove.

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Browns Fist
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Lower Refuse
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
AP Treat
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Welton's Corner
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Alcove Cracks
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
 3
Whack-A-Mole
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Wild
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Effigy
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
Wildabeast
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Browns Fist
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Lower Refuse
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
AP Treat
 9
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Welton's Corner
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Alcove Cracks
 11
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Whack-A-Mole
 3
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X Trad
Wild
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Effigy
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Wildabeast
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area »

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A couple of corrections to climbs here as listed in the guidebooks; I have no idea how to contact the guidebook authors should they wish to correct future editions:

The route Handren (2012) lists as "By The Way" 5.10a by Hurley and Kahn, 2007 was originally lead by Loran Smith in the Spring of 1986 after a brief scrubbing. I named it "Welton's Corner" after my grandfather who passed away earlier that week. I climbed it a week later with Mack Johnson who confirmed my 5.9 rating. See route description for further details.

The route Webster (1996) refers to as "Slings & Arrows" ascends the left side of the slab where AP Treat is located. It had one 1/4" bolt about 15-20' up which was placed on lead after a thorough and exhaustive cleaning, hence the original name "A Maid in the Shade" (FA by Loran Smith, 1986, belayed by my soon-to-be wife who did not follow). It was rated 5.9+ PG at the time of the FA, but as of Nov 2012 the bolt is either gone or hidden under inches of beautifully thick green moss. Not worth re-scrubbing or doing. Nov 3, 2012

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