All Locations > International > Europe > France > .Snow, Ice and… > Mont Blanc Range > Vallée Blanche Basin
Avg: 3.7 from 31 votes
|Type:||Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||4,269 total · 58/month|
|Shared By:||Dan Flynn on Mar 4, 2012|
|Admins:||Euan Cameron, Luc-514|
DescriptionThe Classic Climb. AD, Grade II, mostly snow and moderate alpine climbing, with a few sections of strenuous mixed climbing (in winter) or easy rock.
The start up from the Cosmiques laboratory is quite easy, no need to rope up. The beginning of the arete apparently is a slab in summer, but an easy snow slope in winter. From the second peak, two short rappels take you down to the base of the third peak. Easiest route is around to the right, also possible to go straight up it (but need to abseil again).
A short chimney pitch was the crux for us. The guidebook calls it 4c... felt like M5 to me!
Traverse around the corner to the Chamonix side of the ridge, and don't get distracted by the gully with the small roof.. instead head further to the left for the last, brilliant pitch of mixed snow and ice climbing. Really a blast!
Finish on a shoulder in view of the platform of the cable car station. Walk over and up the metal stairs to top out on the platform, doing your best to ignore the cameras (why yes, I am a famous alpinist...).
LocationFrom the cable car station, walk down the steep ridge (put on your crampons, you have them!), and turn down the easy slope towards the Refuge de Cosmiques. Hike up the slope towards the abandoned Cosmiques laboratory, and follow the obvious line up the arete.
Since the finish is on the cable car station, it makes a popular round trip!