Le Ticket, le Rond, le Carré et la Lune

• Follow an inconspicuous path leading towards the right of the NNW face of the Peigne, at the start of the Arête des Papillons. Then on your left, find a large, 20-or-so meter-tall boulder. Get around its right side (often firn). A little way above, on a vertical line from it, a system of terraces starts. Follow them towards the left. The path is marked with cairns. Climb a 15-meter mantel shelf (glue-in at the top for abseiling and belaying), then reach the base of the routes by following some platform systems..  
• The starting platform is on the right of the face. Find the conspicuous roofs of the 2nd pitch. The start is on a high terrace 50 meters left of the large corner which separates the NW face and that of the «Arête des papillons». Many routes have been bolted in the sector. «Le Ticket» starts in the line of the short P1 corner and of a sort of tower which appears unstuck from the slabby shield (R1)

• «Le Ticket» is a prominent slab route. The necessary glue-ins are there, new and sturdy but the next one can sometimes appear to be at somewhat soaring height. Some like it that way. A complex itinerary, morning shade contributes to general tenseness.
• 750 ft of rock climbing / compulsory 5.10c
  Anchors are fitted, new
  Glue-ins and chain at the anchors except R3 and R4
  10-12 quickdraws of which 3-4 composed of long slings
  50m rappels. 60m ropes advisable
  
• More information : chamgranit-topos.com/cham_n…
• Translation from french by Aanoud Petermann

- No glacier, but often some firn. Ice-axes and crampons can be useful depending on conditions.
- 1 set of camalots C4 up to blue n°3
- Double 0.4 / 0.5 / 0.75 / 1./ from grey to red
- 1 set of C3 from 0, or X4/.1 .2 .3
- 1 set of nuts

From the upper terrace, climb a short corner and get to the crack on the left of the «tower». R1 is on the summit of this tower.

Pitch 2 (30m 5.10d): From R1, climb a short crack on the left (piton) then overcome the little roof, continue straight up through the steep and exposed wall. R2 is on a small platform. 3 anchors at the same location. Left is the abseil-line, the middle anchor is R2 of Ticket, and on the right is R2 of Madame Rêve.
 
Pitch 3 (40m 5.10c): From R2 overcome the tricky slab above, exit outwards left, towards a lighter-colored patch. Keep going left and traverse horizontally, reach a cracked corner towards the left. After a few meters, avoid a small roof by climbing to the right of it and reach R3 by climbing upwards left.

Pitch 4 (40m 5.11a/b): From R3, overcome the short steep wall (6c), reach the crack heading upwards right and follow it for ten-or-so meters. Find a glue-in to the right, leave the crack and traverse horizontally towards the right. Overcome the short slab above and keep climbing throught the cracked corner. Leave the corner when you reach a piton and reach R4 by way of the slab going upwards left.

Pitch 5 (35m 5.10c): From R4, take the small corner to the left, a tricky move to exit. Overcome the runout slab above and traverse under the little roof, horizontally towards the left. R5 at the exit of the roof.
 
Pitch 6 (35m 5.10c): From R5, traverse to the left for ten-or-so meters, then overcome the cracked-corner system, 2 pitons. Exit on the right in the midst of the slab and traverse frankly to the right. Overcome the exposed wall using an inconspicuous corner. R6 is on the left.

Pitch 7 (30m 5.10a): From R6, take a conspicuous crack to the left. At the exit, take a right. R7 and the start of the rappels are a little to the right, on the terraces of the normale route of l’Aiguille du Peigne.

1. In the route
2. Watch out, no chain at R3 and R4, go from R5 directly to the abseil point mentioned on the guide, then reach R2 and from there directly to the  starting platform.