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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress
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3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Exposed Link S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fairweather Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Genuine Risk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grind, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hand Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Kutcorner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Less Than Zero T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lycra Lips T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Moon Boots AKA Captains Hat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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No Jive Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 |
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Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Spanish Fly T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Unknown left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown right S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 40.5733, -111.771 |
| FA: | Eric Salmi, Alex Lemieux Spring 2022, extension winter 2024 |
| Page Views: | 817 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Father Fluffy Butt on Jan 8, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This climb is unique in style and has some uncommon movement that will have you think outside the box. It’s very well protected, has delicate footwork and it’s not an easy on-sight.
Start in a rounded corner just right of Body English. Shimmy up until the corner starts arching right. A "Houdini" like sequence will transition you into the arch. The feature fades away just before reaching the freshly cut arete, requiring a finishing magic trick to clip the chains.
This route was supposed to climb into a bulging finger crack through a black streak. Going ground up, we found the crack was rotting. We backed off and put in an anchor just before the crack in spring 2022. In winter of 2023 a massive rock fall event cleaned this crack off and left a sharp arete.
The anchor was bumped up 1 more bolt and now finishes on the arete on January 2024.
Location
Follow the approach to Mexican Crack until you reach the base of Less than Zero. Look right (East) for the obvious right facing arching corner. The route faces West and is 50’ across from Less Than Zero between Body English and Fairweather variation . It stays in the shade all morning until noon.
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