Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Brian and Jonathan Smoot
Page Views: 8,065 total · 43/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on Aug 25, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Stem up through the spike from the Crescent Crack Direct variation and clip first bolt. The crux here is to not pull on the draw and do the cool mantle onto the slab. Clip next bolt then set up belay at the two bolts. Beautiful slab that wanders a bit left and right. runners could be helpful on a few of the bolts to reduce rope drag. If done as the finish to Crescent Crack this route has it all.


This is a stellar variation of the Crescent Crack route. Standard wasatch rack with 6 draws for this final slab.


Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Great line, that wanders just a bit too much to make it a classic. Climbing up through the spike is interesting, the mantle exciting, and of course, the well-protected slab supreme. Love that quartz vein!! Jul 17, 2005
Who removed the belay chains from the middle of the route. It makes rapping the final link with a 60 meter rope very dangerous. A 70 meter rope just reaches the belay chains at the bottom. Mar 15, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
That rappel station was added to an established route that was put up on lead, right in the middle of the route. Did kind of ruin the aesthetic of the route a tad. Needed to go. If you only have a single rope, then rappel from the tree at the top to the base of the Coffin and walk down from there. Apr 9, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
The Final Link takes off from the Direct Finish to Crescent Crack by going up to a bolt, then a weird (kinda hard!) move, then left to the bolted anchor on the bottom of the final face. So you go up through the spike just like the Direct variation but instead of following the main crack to the right, go up. One bolt protects the move to the fixed anchor.

Crescent Crack drops down the ramp then off (past the squeeze crux, then up the crack until the easy ramp appears). You can set a belay either prior to that ramp, then lead the next pitch to the fixed anchor on the final face, or, climb up past the ramp and set an anchor, or, drop down the ramp and set an anchor. Any of those options kinda work.

Final Link is super and a great way to top out the buttress. Apr 9, 2007
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Classic. If you're going to climb crescent crack you have to finish on this route, it makes no sense to skip the best part of the buttress and traverse on the manky ramp.
Getting to the start of the route by climbing the direct finish to crescent is tons of fun and the slab is reminiscent of a well protected S-direct. I don't think that the "wandering" takes anything away from it, clip very bolt with a long runner and the rope drag remains minimal.
If you do it after work it's worth chilling on the ledge for a while and watch the alpenglow on the south side while the city slowly lights up.
Rap in the tree infested gully to the east and do a night ascent of the coffin for the perfect linkup! Jun 24, 2008
Aimee Bates  
Very frictiony! 5.9 felt a little soft for LCC standards. : ) Jun 20, 2009
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
just did this, so good!

thanks smoots! another classic LCC line Mar 12, 2011
Courtney Pace   Sandy
If you can negotiate the finger crack and smearing of the feet directly above the ramp, then pull the mantel sans A0 then the slab won't feel very hard. The crux is right off the belay getting to the first bolt. After that it eases up a bit and you can get your slab groove on. Mar 4, 2012
a 70 meter rope from the top does NOT reach the belay chains. instead, rap down to the base of the coffin and walk back (after you send the coffin, of course). Jun 13, 2012
Jim D  
There are two bolts that take off left off Crescent Crack just above the chimney. The line seems like it would end up on Final Link eventually. Anyone know what that route is, what's it's rated, and whether it has actually been finished? I could only see two bolts from Crescent Crack and I would imagine there would be more as I didn't see any gear above that.... Nov 1, 2013
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
That's probably Genuine Risk, 5.11c R Nov 2, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
The mantel is kind of awkward and detracts from the absolutely immaculate slab above. Some of the best slabbing action in Little. Feb 1, 2015
Ryan Arnold
  5.9 PG13
Ryan Arnold  
  5.9 PG13
I loved the mantel! Alley-oop on up there! Fabulous 5.9 slab, you actually get to practice pure smearing. "Well protected" on LCC slab means 10-12 foot runouts. Mar 16, 2015
Ryan Rex
Spanish Fork
Ryan Rex   Spanish Fork
Fun line, didn’t think it was worthy of lcc 5.9 though... thought this one was significantly easier than last caress, and the hook, and about the same as tingeys. Just my .02. so don’t let the .9 rating deter you from jumping on it Oct 12, 2018