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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress

3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand Jive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kutcorner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Jive Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown right S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Merrill Bitter, Bret Ruckman 1981 (P2) Unknown (P1)
Page Views: 239 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

In the gully that The Great Chockstone starts in, are 3 routes on the right wall. First, from left to right, is Who's On First a bolted slab route, last is Multiplicity, a bolted arete climb. The Ross Connection is in between these two, climbing right along a ramp to a set of flared grooves. These end on a ledge and allow you to start a second set with better gear. End at the anchors.
Pitch two climbs off the anchors right past the tree and down-climbs a bit of Crescent Crack until you can traverse into the thin crack with maybe one good piece (Blue Wild Country), and maybe a second (Yelllow Metolius). Work up this crack/slab until you can get to the chicken-head, traverse right to the pile of jumbled boulders, and set an anchor. Nothing after the 2 pieces is possible, so if the second falls, he could get bloody on a slabby pendulum.

The book calls this a 5.10c. We felt it was easier, 9+ or 10b depending on who you ask.

The book also gives this an R/X rating. We both felt a flat R was better, if you use the tree.

Protection

First pitch is flaring and it liked cams (medium), second half was more nut-friendly, and the 2nd pitch--yellow Metolius, Blue WC. Climb above the tree and then downclimb as this will help if you fall before getting any pieces in.
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
It should be noted that the first pitch is 5.8, and is worth doing (one star). Nov 25, 2008
Ben Folsom
  5.10b R
Ben Folsom  
  5.10b R
To protect the seconding climber on the 2nd pitch traverse to the base of the Ross route, I climbed up to the bolt on the Ross Route, then downclimbed and set up a belay on the blocky ledge below. With that bolt clipped, the unprotected traverse is much safer for the seconding climber. Good route, I agree that it is R and not X. Sep 14, 2008
Double D SLC  
 
First pitch is good, gritty, sharp and worth a trip to the first anchors. The easy section in between the two cracks sorta detracts from the fun jamming. Sep 19, 2007