Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches
FA: Merrill Bitter, Bret Ruckman 1981 (P2) Unknown (P1)
Page Views: 699 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

In the gully that The Great Chockstone starts in, are 3 routes on the right wall. First, from left to right, is Who's On First a bolted slab route, last is Multiplicity, a bolted arete climb. The Ross Connection is in between these two, climbing right along a ramp to a set of flared grooves. These end on a ledge and allow you to start a second set with better gear. End at the anchors.
Pitch two climbs off the anchors right past the tree and down-climbs a bit of Crescent Crack until you can traverse into the thin crack with maybe one good piece (Blue Wild Country), and maybe a second (Yelllow Metolius). Work up this crack/slab until you can get to the chicken-head, traverse right to the pile of jumbled boulders, and set an anchor. Nothing after the 2 pieces is possible, so if the second falls, he could get bloody on a slabby pendulum.

The book calls this a 5.10c. We felt it was easier, 9+ or 10b depending on who you ask.

The book also gives this an R/X rating. We both felt a flat R was better, if you use the tree.

Protection

First pitch is flaring and it liked cams (medium), second half was more nut-friendly, and the 2nd pitch--yellow Metolius, Blue WC. Climb above the tree and then downclimb as this will help if you fall before getting any pieces in.

Photos