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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress

3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand Jive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kutcorner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Jive Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown right S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, Aid, 80 ft
FA: Mark Ward and Randy Wright 1976 FFA: Mark Bennet mid 1980's
Page Views: 1,817 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jason Billings on Jun 28, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the large off width crack, to the left a little and up from Kutcorner. Using a 70M rope, we used the anchors on top of Hand Jive to toprope this climb. This crack looked easy on rappel but climbing it was a whole different matter. We didn't climb Kutcorner, but started from the very bottom and climbed this weird chimney to the left, up to the Kutcorner chains. Once you are up there it is obvious why the Falcon Wasatch Guide labels this as a 5.9 A0 or 5.11. From the chains you'd have to make the thinnest little friction moves to get to the crack. We both took the rope swing. A bolt has been placed above the chains to make the aid swing but because it is straight up, swinging from the bolt might be difficult.

Protection

Medium to Hand size Cams
greyson
SLC, UT
  5.8+ A0
greyson   SLC, UT
  5.8+ A0
Sweet route. I felt that the OW wasn't harder than 5.8 and it protected well. I took up 3 #3's and placed all of them as i am a bit squeamish. Bring a number four as well. Make sure you use some long runner for the last piece you put in to avoid the horrendous rope drag. If i recall correctly the route shares chains with hand jive. Apr 14, 2016
thehackattacks
Park City, UT
 
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
 
What a surprisingly good climb!!! I loved it! May 30, 2015