Type: Trad, TR, Aid, 80 ft
FA: Mark Ward and Randy Wright 1976 FFA: Mark Bennet mid 1980's
Page Views: 2,057 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jason Billings on Jun 28, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This is the large off width crack, to the left a little and up from Kutcorner. Using a 70M rope, we used the anchors on top of Hand Jive to toprope this climb. This crack looked easy on rappel but climbing it was a whole different matter. We didn't climb Kutcorner, but started from the very bottom and climbed this weird chimney to the left, up to the Kutcorner chains. Once you are up there it is obvious why the Falcon Wasatch Guide labels this as a 5.9 A0 or 5.11. From the chains you'd have to make the thinnest little friction moves to get to the crack. We both took the rope swing. A bolt has been placed above the chains to make the aid swing but because it is straight up, swinging from the bolt might be difficult.


Medium to Hand size Cams


Park City, UT
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
What a surprisingly good climb!!! I loved it! May 30, 2015
  5.8+ A0
Greyson   SLC, UT
  5.8+ A0
Sweet route. I felt that the OW wasn't harder than 5.8 and it protected well. I took up 3 #3's and placed all of them as i am a bit squeamish. Bring a number four as well. Make sure you use some long runner for the last piece you put in to avoid the horrendous rope drag. If i recall correctly the route shares chains with hand jive. Apr 14, 2016