| Type: | Trad, TR, Aid, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 40.5733, -111.771 |
| FA: | Mark Ward and Randy Wright 1976 FFA: Mark Bennet mid 1980's |
| Page Views: | 3,601 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Billings on Jun 28, 2005 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is the large off width crack, to the left a little and up from Kutcorner. Using a 70M rope, we used the anchors on top of Hand Jive to toprope this climb. This crack looked easy on rappel but climbing it was a whole different matter. We didn't climb Kutcorner, but started from the very bottom and climbed this weird chimney to the left, up to the Kutcorner chains. Once you are up there it is obvious why the Falcon Wasatch Guide labels this as a 5.9 A0 or 5.11. From the chains you'd have to make the thinnest little friction moves to get to the crack. We both took the rope swing. A bolt has been placed above the chains to make the aid swing but because it is straight up, swinging from the bolt might be difficult.




3 Comments