Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Kent Wheeler 1995
Page Views: 2,450 total · 18/month
Shared By: Dave Budge on Nov 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Great route with tantalizing slabby face climbing. A tenuous start protects the awesome arete.

Historical trivia: I think Kent put this up the morning of his wedding day.

Location

Climbs the arete right of Hand Jive, between Crack in the Woods and Roterts.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

I noticed that too - about a year and a half ago. I doubt it gets led very often if no one has replaced it in that long time. Kinda hard where the bolt is missing. Nov 11, 2007
Dave Budge
North Slope of the Wrangells
  5.11d
Dave Budge   North Slope of the Wrangells
  5.11d
I'll talk to Kent and take care of it. Nov 12, 2007
i think the "carrot" adds character to this superb line. what a route! Jun 27, 2009
bheller
SL UT
  5.12c
bheller   SL UT
  5.12c
I'm just gonna say it...this route is 12c, highly technical, and sports multiple cruxes. The true crux comes above the first bolt-a thin, ugly V5. After that it sports multiple 12- cruxes. For me it was a time warp of insecure, difficult climbing. One bolt is still missing a hangar, and the stud sticks out at the point where this route comes closest to Hand Jive crack(about half the way up). Comparatively, the climbing isn't hard where the hangar is gone. There are chains at the top, about 11 bolts, and 70m rope puts you down best. This route is mentally taxing, and after you've led it, its strangely difficult to decide whether it was "fun" or not... Apr 8, 2010
I'd have to agree with Brad. The No Jive Arete is hard--really, really hard. The route was hand-drilled on the lead with no hooks, a Kent Wheeler testpiece. This year's the year I'll finally send! S Apr 13, 2010
Yeah right, whatever.
Its only 12a max you gumbys.
Stellar route. Apr 14, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
For what it's worth we ran into Kent up there this weekend and in between bouts of heckling his partners he told me 11c was the hardest he could climb back then (wink wink) so that's what he graded it. He also mentioned that some holds might have broken then floated the thing with the exception of the nonsensical moves around the 1st bolt. May 2, 2011
Ben Folsom
  5.11d
Ben Folsom  
  5.11d
no way this is 12c...and it is fun! May 3, 2011
Skat B
Down Rodeo
 
Skat B   Down Rodeo
 
bolt hanger missing halfway up arete Jul 15, 2012
Ryan Arnold
  5.12a
Ryan Arnold  
  5.12a
WOW! I only toproped it but it sure left an impression. Multiple 11++ sections of steep, thin slab. Probably 3 positive holds on the entire 35 meter route. Top is slightly easier than bottom but still extremely sustained. I think this would be a great route to work if you're building up to Cymbals in the Sun. Bolt hanger still missing halfway up... quite close to hand jive crack. Apr 30, 2014