Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Les Ellison, Bret Ruckman, Gary Olsen 1980
Page Views: 3,272 total · 15/month
Shared By: Stan Pitcher on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This is a great route that doesn't seen enough traffic. You start by doing the first pitch of the Great Chockstone and belaying on top of it. The second pitch is the business and is a bit scary getting to the first bolt. The climbing's not too hard but the pro is kinda sketchy in flaring cracks - don't fall. Once you clip the bolt, you continue to the small roof which you traverse under to the right. Use TCU's or small nuts but leave room for your fingers. The crux is pulling out right and getting established on the arete where there's a thank god pin. Then more spicy slabbing past two bolts gets you to a nice belay. The third pitch is more face fun at 5.9. After passing a few protectable cracks you end up on the Final Link slab which you can join half-way up and continue on to the top. From here you can wrap down to the Coffin with a single rope.


Some TCU's, Nuts, QD's & a few long slings. A 3 or 3.5 camalot is comforting but may not hold in flare