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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress

3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand Jive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kutcorner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Jive Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown right S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,524 total, 35/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Apr 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1: same as the first pitch of the Great Chockstone. Stay outa that squeeze! 5.6 and fairly easy if you stay on top, outside, rather than go for the tight squeeze.
P2: From the top of the chockstone belay, instead of heading left as for the Great Chockstone, head straight up then right past some awkward undercling corner moves (5.8 crux). Climb up to the slanting ledge, then head left to a short crack that gains a nice belay stance at a slung boulder. This pitch can be broken into two if rope drag is a bummer.
P3: Up the slanting, low angle but awkward corner. Belay at a multi stalked scrub oak. 5.7.
P4: Originally, I think the climb went straight up the cruddy gully, or, across the top of the Crescent Crack Buttress face (no pro, very shallow ledge catwalk, 5.7ish). But, you can head up and right, placing pro in the undercling crack for a short distance, then face climb to the last two bolts on the Final Link, which makes a great finish to this fun route.

Full value old school classic!

Location

Shares first pitch with the Great Chockstone. Is located between the Missing Link and the second pitch of the Great Chockstone. Basically, the route contours the left edge of the Crescent Crack Buttress.

Descent: either rappel to the base of the Coffin and walk down, or, rappel down the fixed rappel stations down the front side of the Crescent Crack Buttress (two ropes needed for the first rappel from the top of the Final Link), or, descend off to the left as for the Great Chockstone/Neptune variation.

Protection

Standard rack. A small cam provides unexpected great pro at the crux. No fixed anchors unless you finish on the Final Link (and then, only the last pitch has a fixed anchor).
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
You really want to do the 10 variation straight up to avoid the rope drag even though it sucks too! You can get a pretty bomber (whip tested!) yellow alien behind the crumbly little hand arch and make sure to save a .75 camalot for the top-out or you will be crying like I was! :) The recommended last pitch is to head up the right facing corner and then link to the last 2 bolts of the Final Link. If you want to finish the climb without using the bolts either stay on the left side of the Final Link slab or traverse across it (R) and find a way down into the Coffin gulley (years ago there were slings to do this). May 3, 2012
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.8 R
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.8 R
This route would merit more stars if you didn't have to climb the chimney pitch of the Great Chockstone. There isn't anything great about that chimney. Pulling out of the crux traverse is thrilling, to say the least. Rope drag can be minimized by climbing the 5.10 crack just above the crux instead of the easier crack on the left. However, there is a detached section of rock at the edge of the crack that convinced me to endure the rope drag to the left. The last two pitches can be linked together. The final pitch has a 30 foot runout (unless you clip one of the bolts of Final Link) as there isn't really a crack or seam at all, just a hairline fracture with a slight groove. There is a blind placement just before the final belay bush that finishes the runout section. This is just as scary for the second as it is for the leader, and the name Lazarus was probably appropriate for the need to be raised from the dead if you blow it on this pitch. This was first climbed before Final Link was bolted. You can continue up a crack above the final belay bush to some slings that provide a handy rappel exit to the base of the Coffin. Nov 8, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
The picture of it in Green and Turville's "Desperate Grace" kept me from wanting to do it for years.

I think its also mentioned in Smith's Wasatch Granite guidebook as well.

Any clue on the FA? Jun 18, 2007
craigr
Orem
craigr   Orem
Nothing new here. This route is in the old blue guide by Ellison and Smoot. Jun 15, 2007