Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,348 total · 35/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Apr 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1: This pitch starts the same as the first pitch of the Great Chockstone. Stay outa that squeeze! 5.6 and fairly easy if you stay on top, outside, rather than go for the tight squeeze.

P2: From the top of the chockstone belay, instead of heading left as for the Great Chockstone, head straight up then right past some awkward undercling corner moves (5.8 crux). Climb up to the slanting ledge, then head left to a short crack that gains a nice belay stance at a slung boulder. This pitch can be broken into two if rope drag is a bummer.

P3: Climb up the slanting, low angle, but awkward corner. Belay at a multi stalked scrub oak. (5.7)

P4: Originally, I think the climb went straight up the cruddy gully, or, across the top of the Crescent Crack Buttress face (no pro, very shallow ledge catwalk, 5.7ish). But, you can head up and right, placing pro in the undercling crack for a short distance, then face climb to the last two bolts on the Final Link, which makes a great finish to this fun route.

Full value old school classic!

Location Suggest change

Shares first pitch with the Great Chockstone. Is located between the Missing Link and the second pitch of the Great Chockstone. Basically, the route contours the left edge of the Crescent Crack Buttress.

Descent: either rappel to the base of the Coffin and walk down, or, rappel down the fixed rappel stations down the front side of the Crescent Crack Buttress (two ropes needed for the first rappel from the top of the Final Link), or, descend off to the left as for the Great Chockstone/Neptune variation.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack. A small cam provides unexpected great pro at the crux. No fixed anchors unless you finish on the Final Link (and then, only the last pitch has a fixed anchor).