Avg: 2.4 from 46 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||5,680 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Apr 9, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
P2: From the top of the chockstone belay, instead of heading left as for the Great Chockstone, head straight up then right past some awkward undercling corner moves (5.8 crux). Climb up to the slanting ledge, then head left to a short crack that gains a nice belay stance at a slung boulder. This pitch can be broken into two if rope drag is a bummer.
P3: Climb up the slanting, low angle, but awkward corner. Belay at a multi stalked scrub oak. (5.7)
P4: Originally, I think the climb went straight up the cruddy gully, or, across the top of the Crescent Crack Buttress face (no pro, very shallow ledge catwalk, 5.7ish). But, you can head up and right, placing pro in the undercling crack for a short distance, then face climb to the last two bolts on the Final Link, which makes a great finish to this fun route.
Full value old school classic!
Descent: either rappel to the base of the Coffin and walk down, or, rappel down the fixed rappel stations down the front side of the Crescent Crack Buttress (two ropes needed for the first rappel from the top of the Final Link), or, descend off to the left as for the Great Chockstone/Neptune variation.