Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,896 total · 34/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Apr 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1: same as the first pitch of the Great Chockstone. Stay outa that squeeze! 5.6 and fairly easy if you stay on top, outside, rather than go for the tight squeeze.
P2: From the top of the chockstone belay, instead of heading left as for the Great Chockstone, head straight up then right past some awkward undercling corner moves (5.8 crux). Climb up to the slanting ledge, then head left to a short crack that gains a nice belay stance at a slung boulder. This pitch can be broken into two if rope drag is a bummer.
P3: Up the slanting, low angle but awkward corner. Belay at a multi stalked scrub oak. 5.7.
P4: Originally, I think the climb went straight up the cruddy gully, or, across the top of the Crescent Crack Buttress face (no pro, very shallow ledge catwalk, 5.7ish). But, you can head up and right, placing pro in the undercling crack for a short distance, then face climb to the last two bolts on the Final Link, which makes a great finish to this fun route.

Full value old school classic!

Location

Shares first pitch with the Great Chockstone. Is located between the Missing Link and the second pitch of the Great Chockstone. Basically, the route contours the left edge of the Crescent Crack Buttress.

Descent: either rappel to the base of the Coffin and walk down, or, rappel down the fixed rappel stations down the front side of the Crescent Crack Buttress (two ropes needed for the first rappel from the top of the Final Link), or, descend off to the left as for the Great Chockstone/Neptune variation.

Protection

Standard rack. A small cam provides unexpected great pro at the crux. No fixed anchors unless you finish on the Final Link (and then, only the last pitch has a fixed anchor).

Photos

craigr
Orem
craigr   Orem
Nothing new here. This route is in the old blue guide by Ellison and Smoot. Jun 15, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.8
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.8
The picture of it in Green and Turville's "Desperate Grace" kept me from wanting to do it for years.

I think its also mentioned in Smith's Wasatch Granite guidebook as well.

Any clue on the FA? Jun 18, 2007
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.8 R
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.8 R
This route would merit more stars if you didn't have to climb the chimney pitch of the Great Chockstone. There isn't anything great about that chimney. Pulling out of the crux traverse is thrilling, to say the least. Rope drag can be minimized by climbing the 5.10 crack just above the crux instead of the easier crack on the left. However, there is a detached section of rock at the edge of the crack that convinced me to endure the rope drag to the left. The last two pitches can be linked together. The final pitch has a 30 foot runout (unless you clip one of the bolts of Final Link) as there isn't really a crack or seam at all, just a hairline fracture with a slight groove. There is a blind placement just before the final belay bush that finishes the runout section. This is just as scary for the second as it is for the leader, and the name Lazarus was probably appropriate for the need to be raised from the dead if you blow it on this pitch. This was first climbed before Final Link was bolted. You can continue up a crack above the final belay bush to some slings that provide a handy rappel exit to the base of the Coffin. Nov 8, 2007
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
You really want to do the 10 variation straight up to avoid the rope drag even though it sucks too! You can get a pretty bomber (whip tested!) yellow alien behind the crumbly little hand arch and make sure to save a .75 camalot for the top-out or you will be crying like I was! :) The recommended last pitch is to head up the right facing corner and then link to the last 2 bolts of the Final Link. If you want to finish the climb without using the bolts either stay on the left side of the Final Link slab or traverse across it (R) and find a way down into the Coffin gulley (years ago there were slings to do this). May 3, 2012