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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress
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3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Closet Lycra T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Daily Grind S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fairweather Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Genuine Risk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hand Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Kutcorner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Less Than Zero T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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No Jive Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 |
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Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Spanish Fly T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown right S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 6,963 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Apr 9, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1: This pitch starts the same as the first pitch of the Great Chockstone. Stay outa that squeeze! 5.6 and fairly easy if you stay on top, outside, rather than go for the tight squeeze.
P2: From the top of the chockstone belay, instead of heading left as for the Great Chockstone, head straight up then right past some awkward undercling corner moves (5.8 crux). Climb up to the slanting ledge, then head left to a short crack that gains a nice belay stance at a slung boulder. This pitch can be broken into two if rope drag is a bummer.
P3: Climb up the slanting, low angle, but awkward corner. Belay at a multi stalked scrub oak. (5.7)
P4: Originally, I think the climb went straight up the cruddy gully, or, across the top of the Crescent Crack Buttress face (no pro, very shallow ledge catwalk, 5.7ish). But, you can head up and right, placing pro in the undercling crack for a short distance, then face climb to the last two bolts on the Final Link, which makes a great finish to this fun route.
Full value old school classic!
P2: From the top of the chockstone belay, instead of heading left as for the Great Chockstone, head straight up then right past some awkward undercling corner moves (5.8 crux). Climb up to the slanting ledge, then head left to a short crack that gains a nice belay stance at a slung boulder. This pitch can be broken into two if rope drag is a bummer.
P3: Climb up the slanting, low angle, but awkward corner. Belay at a multi stalked scrub oak. (5.7)
P4: Originally, I think the climb went straight up the cruddy gully, or, across the top of the Crescent Crack Buttress face (no pro, very shallow ledge catwalk, 5.7ish). But, you can head up and right, placing pro in the undercling crack for a short distance, then face climb to the last two bolts on the Final Link, which makes a great finish to this fun route.
Full value old school classic!
Location
Shares first pitch with the Great Chockstone. Is located between the Missing Link and the second pitch of the Great Chockstone. Basically, the route contours the left edge of the Crescent Crack Buttress.
Descent: either rappel to the base of the Coffin and walk down, or, rappel down the fixed rappel stations down the front side of the Crescent Crack Buttress (two ropes needed for the first rappel from the top of the Final Link), or, descend off to the left as for the Great Chockstone/Neptune variation.
Descent: either rappel to the base of the Coffin and walk down, or, rappel down the fixed rappel stations down the front side of the Crescent Crack Buttress (two ropes needed for the first rappel from the top of the Final Link), or, descend off to the left as for the Great Chockstone/Neptune variation.
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