All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Crescent Crack Buttress

Great Chockstone, The

Name: Great Chockstone, The
Rating: 2.0

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fairweather Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Genuine Risk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hand Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Kutcorner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Less Than Zero T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	New Route? S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	No Jive Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
	Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Spanish Fly T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Unknown left T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown right S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Larry Evans, Dick Ream, Rich Ream 1965
Page Views:	5,088 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Nathan Fisher on Feb 26, 2005
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

The main crack system west of the Crescent Crack climb is The Great Chockstone. It is obvious because of the monster "chockstone". The 1st pitch is about 75% chimneying, and not many chimneys are too enjoyable, so plan on blood and frustration. After the chimney opens up, you can attain the belay ledge, right above the chockstone, by climbing very easy ladder-like ledges.

The 2nd pitch has no chimneying, but it does have a slightly overhanging section that seemed to climb more at 5.8 than 5.7. It climbs up and left of the main crack system attaining a gritty but easy slab that you traverse across for the finish.

Once you reach the main sandy ledge, the exit is up and west. Continue west and down, until you pass Hand Jive, and then Crack in the Woods.

Enjoy and bring the band-aids.

Protection

No fixed gear anywhere on this route, but one old piton above the 1st belay. Bring your larger gear. I used hexes, large nuts, but especially my SLCD's as the cracks tend to be flaring on this climb.