Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Larry Evans, Dick Ream, Rich Ream 1965
Page Views: 3,607 total · 21/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Feb 26, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The main crack system west of the Crescent Crack climb is The Great Chockstone. It is obvious because of the monster "chockstone". The 1st pitch is about 75% chimneying, and not many chimneys are too enjoyable, so plan on blood and frustration. After the chimney opens up, you can attain the belay ledge, right above the chockstone, by climbing very easy ladder-like ledges.

The 2nd pitch has no chimneying, but it does have a slightly overhanging section that seemed to climb more at 5.8 than 5.7. It climbs up and left of the main crack system attaining a gritty but easy slab that you traverse across for the finish.

Once you reach the main sandy ledge, the exit is up and west. Continue west and down, until you pass Hand Jive, and then Crack in the Woods.

Enjoy and bring the band-aids.


No fixed gear anywhere on this route, but one old piton above the 1st belay. Bring your larger gear. I used hexes, large nuts, but especially my SLCD's as the cracks tend to be flaring on this climb.


Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
I'll agree its a hard 5.7!Going straight up (Lazurus) is good too and kinda hard for 5.8. To stay 5.8 you have to move left at the top (beware rope drag) - straight up is 10a I think but pretty well protected.

You can also exit these routes (and Missing link) by continuing to the top of the Crescent slab and rapping down to the Coffin ledge. Mar 17, 2005
Adam Steel
Salt Lake City
Adam Steel   Salt Lake City
The first pitch's chimney is fun, with a section of squeeze. I found the second pitch to be significantly harder than 5.7. 5.9, maybe, if only for about 5 feet? Mar 8, 2007
The second pitch overhang was pretty tough I would defiantly say that it was harder than 5.7. Oct 7, 2008
Michael Buchanan  
There is good beta that makes the 2nd pitch around 5.7. Think more chimneying and get to that sweet hand jam! More intimidating than hard. IMHO the only good moves on the route was the overhang, otherwise not worth doing Mar 28, 2010
Randycovington   Lehi
I'll second the part about bringing Band aids! Sep 14, 2010
Great Practice for epi at Red Rocks....The Trick....Stay way out on the edge and there is no squeeze or pain at all...Yes a little scary but great feet and Technique.....The second pitch is awesome worth learning how to climb the first pitch.....Enjoy Chimney masters.... Oct 17, 2010
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
They don't call in the "Great" Chockstone for nothing. Go and do this route! Belaying ontop of the chockstone is one of the most unique belays in the canyon. Apr 15, 2011
Broseph L
Salt Lake City, UT
Broseph L   Salt Lake City, UT
Honestly the 1st pitch is a pretty fun chimney pitch. The second pitch is short and not really worth it, there's only like a few moves of crux climbing and other than that it's 5.5. Be careful of rope drag and don't deck either. 2 and 1/2 stars for the chimney. Apr 6, 2012
Emma Hanks
Provo, UT
Emma Hanks   Provo, UT
My first visit to Crescent Crack area I thought this was the first pitch of Crescent Crack. After going through the squeeze, arm barring and "Pelvic jamming" and finishing the first pitch I realized my mistake and couldn't stop laughing, this had to be one of the most ridiculous chimney pitches I have ever done. A great adventure. Blood and Frustration is great beta! Jul 28, 2012
Joseph Lascurain
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
Heads up at the top of the chockstone. It looks like there was a very recent large rockfall. There are a number of large really loose blocks that look like they could slide down the route. There is also a huge rock (1/4?) of the size of the Great Chockstone lying next to it. This was my first time on the route, so perhaps its always been like this. But based on the how freshly sheared the rock looked, the amount of fresh dirt on the rock in comparison to the Great Chockstone and the large bush dangling out of the rock where this piece obviously fell from, it seems likely this was more recent. There is also at least one basketball sized stone sitting above your head that appears to be barely hanging on.

Wear a helmet for this one and Lazarus. Dec 5, 2012
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
Wear pants/shirts you don't particularly value for this one. Good practice chimneying. Also bring some larger cams to protect the chimney if you're not entirely comfortable running it out. Apr 20, 2013
Thaddeus VanDenBerghe
Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
Thaddeus VanDenBerghe   Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
There is currently a bit of tat and some rap rings at the top of the first pitch. It is located on top of the great chockstone proper, look just above it and on the up canyon (Eastside) for a small tatted chockstone. I would recommend backing and equalizing it up if using it as a belay anchor.

Fun stuff. Feb 14, 2014