Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FFA: Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers, Lynn Wheeler 1984
Page Views: 219 total · 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Collins on Aug 13, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Classic Piece Of Sh#! is just that A classic that will ever bring up frustrating and grueling memories. The route lies just around the corner to the right of the mega classic Mexican Crack. It starts in a left facing dihedral above a slabby ramp. It's steep, pumpy ,and very sequencial. The lower section climbs an easy crack with juggy flakes to the left. There is a shared bolt with the very cool Less Than Zero. After this point the climbing is in your face. The Crux is a left handed jam with a right hand crimp high in the crack.and move your feet on to a bulge in the crack. Taller guys will be major scrunched and every one will be wiggin out. I've blown it many times here, pulling gear and falling a lot farther than expected Woot! woo! Keep hold of the crimp and slide into another left hand jam. A good stem is to be had witch allows for a moment to collect your thoughts for the move around the arete. Feel for the nubbins and commit to the other face. From here it's smooth sailing to the chains following a finger crack.

Protection

Rack
2 Green Aliens
2 Yellow Aliens
2 .5 BD
1 .75 BD
1 #1 BD
1 #2 BD
1 #3 BD
1 long sling to decrease rope drag around the arete

Photos

bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Lotsa rotten rock and greasy holds on this route- be careful! Consider clipping the bolts you can reach on the left wall (Less than Zero's bolts) for backups. Apr 14, 2008
John Steiger
  5.11b
John Steiger  
  5.11b
Worthwhile route -- varied, burly climbing, well protected. Maybe not worth a full two stars, but I'll give it that to offset Stymingersfink's bomb. Didn't find any loose rock of consequence, and the holds didn't seem greasy to us (despite very warm mid-June temps). Goes into the shade by at least 1pm. Jun 16, 2008