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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress
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3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Exposed Link S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fairweather Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Genuine Risk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grind, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hand Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Kutcorner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Less Than Zero T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lycra Lips T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Moon Boots AKA Captains Hat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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No Jive Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 |
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Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Spanish Fly T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Unknown left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown right S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 40.5733, -111.771 |
| FA: | FFA: Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers, Lynn Wheeler 1984 |
| Page Views: | 1,350 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Collins on Aug 13, 2006 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Classic Piece Of Sh#! is just that A classic that will ever bring up frustrating and grueling memories. The route lies just around the corner to the right of the mega classic Mexican Crack. It starts in a left facing dihedral above a slabby ramp. It's steep, pumpy ,and very sequencial. The lower section climbs an easy crack with juggy flakes to the left. There is a shared bolt with the very cool Less Than Zero. After this point the climbing is in your face. The Crux is a left handed jam with a right hand crimp high in the crack.and move your feet on to a bulge in the crack. Taller guys will be major scrunched and every one will be wiggin out. I've blown it many times here, pulling gear and falling a lot farther than expected Woot! woo! Keep hold of the crimp and slide into another left hand jam. A good stem is to be had witch allows for a moment to collect your thoughts for the move around the arete. Feel for the nubbins and commit to the other face. From here it's smooth sailing to the chains following a finger crack.
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