Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Troy Anderson, Tyler Phillips, and Luke Douglas |
Page Views: | 6,511 total · 30/month |
Shared By: | Ryan Brough on Mar 21, 2007 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Thanks to several recent ascents, this has cleaned up quite a bit. The rock is still gritty and sharp, but it isn't chossy. The vegetation has been removed, making for a more pleasant experience. Climb up the finger crack systems on the right face of the corner. This is a technically challenging and interesting section that can be made easier towards the top by chimneying in the corner. Once safely established on the ledge, sink two pieces before making your move on the heady crux. After all, you don't want to break your ankles. Once in the midst of the crux, you're ankles are in jeopardy, so have your TCUs handy (my ankles are grateful). Lieback, barndoor on a sloper up to a stance and reach for a jam. You're practically done, so hike through the remainder of the crack to the anchors above the bigger ledge. Don't despair if your head won't let you attempt the crux, you can lead up the corner and try the safer top-rope alternative. This route is best climbed in groups of three.
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