Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,248 total · 30/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Mar 21, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Thanks to several recent ascents, this has cleaned up quite a bit. The rock is still gritty and sharp, but it isn't chossy. The vegetation has been removed, making for a more pleasant experience. Climb up the finger crack systems on the right face of the corner. This is a technically challenging and interesting section that can be made easier towards the top by chimneying in the corner. Once safely established on the ledge, sink two pieces before making your move on the heady crux. After all, you don't want to break your ankles. Once in the midst of the crux, you're ankles are in jeopardy, so have your TCUs handy (my ankles are grateful). Lieback, barndoor on a sloper up to a stance and reach for a jam. You're practically done, so hike through the remainder of the crack to the anchors above the bigger ledge. Don't despair if your head won't let you attempt the crux, you can lead up the corner and try the safer top-rope alternative. This route is best climbed in groups of three.

Location

Between Mexican Crack and Grunting Gringos, on the right face of the corner. Lower off of the anchors to get down. This is not the bolted line along the arete with the fixed lost arrow, that would be Grunting Gringos.

Protection

Small nuts and cams. Save some small TCUs for the crux to protect from ledge fall. Two chain anchor at the top. Two long slings will help to reduce rope drag.

Photos

tenesmus  
 
This is a nice warmup for those who are looking to get ready for Mexican or if Mexican is busy. Then do Grunting Gringo's - its really fun and has recently spent some time with the Wire Brush. Mar 22, 2007
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.10a
Surprisingly fun, and awkward off the ledge. Jun 8, 2007
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
This in no way is a 1 star route. It's a great finger crack to a really touchy move up top. Keep your ass out of the chimney for maximum value and commit to the moves off the ledge without getting too far right on chicken heads: there's a great transition from fingers to lieback from a not-so-good stance but the gear is solid. May 11, 2009
Adam Johnson
Park City, UT
Adam Johnson   Park City, UT
Pretty clean and a fun lead! Climbed it along with Mexican Crack on Cinco de Mayo....Must do! Jun 16, 2010
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Great climbing and good gear. Just go for it at the top! May 17, 2011
KG
SLC, UT
  5.9
KG   SLC, UT
  5.9
Did this a few weeks back. There is good pro through the crux. I dont think you should be worried about your ankles like the description says. I fell at the crux and was fine. Oct 23, 2015
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
A most pleasant climb. Can't believe I've walked past it all these years! Jan 1, 2018
tenesmus  
 
Ryan describes a potential ledge fall but this is super manageable and safe. First of all, it's super easy to place two pieces (or even several more) from the ground or while standing on a chicken head. Second, if you stay in the layback position in relation to the crack, the placements are blind, the feet are insecure and it's scary. Whenever I feel that way on a 5.9, it's usually because I'm doing it wrong!

Everything changes once you make yourself do the classic, funky LCC foot moves that position your hips and shoulders into alignment with the crack. Once I did that, the gear that was blind was clearly in sight, the holds that were sucky became solid fingers and the feet that were slippery locked in. Doing it this way makes it feel like a finger crack version of Gordon's Hangover. Line it up and shuffle through bulge on sinker jams. Adding this to the "remember how to climb this kind of rock" list. Apr 5, 2018