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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress

3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand Jive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kutcorner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Jive Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown right S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,117 total, 43/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Mar 16, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Keep walking uphill from Crescent Crack past Mexican Crack until you see two chimneys and a couple of bolted routes. To the left of the chimneys is a 60' finger and thin hand crack - this is it.

Climb a few feet up an easy chimney, and then climb the steep but bomber thin hands crack over a small bulge. Mostly 5.8 with a couple of harder moves. There are chains at the top, or better yet continue up Hand Jive.

Protection

A light rack from small to hand sized.
Tyler Needham
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
Tyler Needham   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
5.8, great climb, really wish the sweet fingers section was 50 feet longer! Nov 21, 2016
justa beater
sandy utah
justa beater   sandy utah
Great climb! All you need is a rack of nuts or 1 yellow and 2 red aliens for the whole climb, felt easier or I guess less cruxy than hand jive, sweet line get on it! Very good for new leaders as well. Mar 27, 2016
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.8
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.8
This felt like a soft 5.8 cuz the crux is the first 15 feet. This takes #.3 and #.4 C4s very well. Basically,the higher you go, the easier this route gets. Slick but loaded with tons of bomber fingerlocks! Definitely a rad line to do for those who want to lead trad. Oct 19, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.8+
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.8+
Crux at bottom protects well with .3 BD. Funky start, mellow finish. Do it, then Hand Jive. Apr 10, 2012
Andrewprime1 Arredondo
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Andrewprime1 Arredondo   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Fun little crack, a bit funky at first. Would have given it three stars if it was double the length. Definitely a good start to Hand Jive! Apr 9, 2012
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.9
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.9
Just climbed this on lead for the second time. This has got to be one of my Top 5 favorite routes. Jan 14, 2012
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Great crack, great climbing - just to dang short! Would be interesting to try to link with Hand-Jive! Oct 24, 2011
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
  5.9-
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
  5.9-
Fun stuff. I think the name really reflects the route well, a quaint little climb. really good gear, wish the trasnfer to hand jive didnt look as scary. Nov 6, 2009
Michael Buchanan  
  5.8
Lookinh through Dave Smiths Guide (Wasatch Granite) he gives Hand Jive a grade of 5.10ish in 1977. Crack in the Woods was not in the book, but I thought this climb was MUCH easier than other classic nines and even easier than the eights in the area. Would be three stars if it was longer. Just my two cents... Oct 21, 2009
Abandoned User  
  5.8
Umm ... yeah, there are some small hand jams, but fingers would be a more accurate description for most of this shorty. May 4, 2009
tytonic
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9-
tytonic   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9-
Fun route that would be better if it was longer and didn't have the chimney start. 5.8+ sounds like a good rating. The last 10-15 feet are really easy. Didn't have time to do Hand Jive. That just gives me an excuse to go climbing again. I agree that TCU's or other small cams woudld be great. I didn't have any and would've liked them. Nov 24, 2007
Josh Petersen
  5.8+
Josh Petersen  
  5.8+
I thought the grade of this and Hand Jive were suspect the day I on-sighted this (supposed 5.9) and backed off Hand Jive before I even started up it. TCU's are great on this. Jul 21, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.8+
Nathan Fisher  
  5.8+
That would make sense, cause I zipped up Crack in the Woods on lead, and Hand Jive on second caused me to gulp a couple of times. Although, in my defense the crux was wet and slippery still. I need to do it again now that it is drier. May 24, 2005
It has long been assumed that these routes (crack in the woods and handjive) have their grades switched. Crack in the woods is closer to 5.8, while handjive seems more like a LCC 5.9. Maybe I am wrong, but have always felt this to be true, and many others do as well. What do you think? May 24, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.8+
Nathan Fisher  
  5.8+
I would agree with Andrew after leading it for the first time this morning. It is a soft 5.9, and it gobbles up gear. It is a nice climb, just way short. Apr 6, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8+
Just lead this after following it the first time. A very soft 5.9 if it is one. Great lead for breaking into the grade - gear is very easy to get anywhere you want it. Apr 2, 2005