Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kent Wheeler, Rush Bowers: 1992
Page Views: 1,513 total · 11/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Approach

Most climbers will probably access this by descending from Crescent Crack but you can also access it by climbing The Ross Connection or climbing Short Corner and continuing up some loose 5.7 G cracks directly below Razor's Edge. The route climbs tiny edges up a vertical face immediately right of The Ross Route.

Route Description

Start: You can set up a natural belay on the big ledge left of the route's start. You can also pretty safely belay with no anchor at all if you stay down in the alcove. You can also anchor to the 2-bolt/chain station at the start of the route.

The crux is above bolt 2. But it is sustained. The best you can do for natural gear to back the 2-bolt station on top is thread a runner through some nearby pinched rocks.

Protection

A 2-bolt/chain station, 6 bolts and a 2-bolt/Fixe trad anchor station.

Photos

Another one I've always wondered about. Is there a natural belay at the bottom or top? Is it pretty easy to get to from the Ross Connection? And how hard is the runnout on Ross anyway? I always wanted to do that but couldn't see around the corner to look at it. Seems like it should be a great way to do something higher on the buttress when there are slower parties up higher. Nov 14, 2007
kent w  
I do not remember the belay at the bottom, it is ossible we placed one. We traversed in from the east side. I doubt we would have placed bolts if there was gear but it is possible as there was a fair amount of air time.

The belay at the top was two pins, It is pobably a good thing they were replaced.
kent Feb 9, 2009
johannsolo
So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
  5.12-
johannsolo   So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
  5.12-
More crumble rock but I did all the moves (after crumbling many holds), then noticed when I rapped down that a key foot crumbled. Need to find another sequence where the route moves right. Pretty good, very thin climbing. Nov 8, 2018