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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress

3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand Jive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kutcorner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Jive Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown right S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kent Wheeler, Rush Bowers: 1992
Page Views: 1,147 total, 9/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Approach

Most climbers will probably access this by descending from Crescent Crack but you can also access it by climbing The Ross Connection or climbing Short Corner and continuing up some loose 5.7 G cracks directly below Razor's Edge. The route climbs tiny edges up a vertical face immediately right of The Ross Route.

Route Description

Start: You can set up a natural belay on the big ledge left of the route's start. You can also pretty safely belay with no anchor at all if you stay down in the alcove. You can also anchor to the 2-bolt/chain station at the start of the route.

The crux is above bolt 2. But it is sustained. The best you can do for natural gear to back the 2-bolt station on top is thread a runner through some nearby pinched rocks.

Protection

A 2-bolt/chain station, 6 bolts and a 2-bolt/Fixe trad anchor station.

Photos

kent w  
I do not remember the belay at the bottom, it is ossible we placed one. We traversed in from the east side. I doubt we would have placed bolts if there was gear but it is possible as there was a fair amount of air time.

The belay at the top was two pins, It is pobably a good thing they were replaced.
kent Feb 9, 2009
Another one I've always wondered about. Is there a natural belay at the bottom or top? Is it pretty easy to get to from the Ross Connection? And how hard is the runnout on Ross anyway? I always wanted to do that but couldn't see around the corner to look at it. Seems like it should be a great way to do something higher on the buttress when there are slower parties up higher. Nov 14, 2007