Moon Boots AKA Captains Hat
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 40.5733, -111.771 |
| FA: | F.A. Eric Salmi, Alex Lemieux Nov 7. 2022 F.F.A. Andy Jacobsen, Eric Salmi Nov. 29 2023 |
| Page Views: | 307 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | ES Fett on May 16, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | Drew Brodhead, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is a nice arete stacked with 2 hard boulder problems that feel like they belong in the boulder field below. Start by climbing up a short flake that peters out to an undercling by the arete. Slap up the arete until you can reach the patina chunk out left, then mantle. The next section requires some delicate footwork to a big move to a slopey ledge. There are couple of steep moves getting past the last bolt to the anchor. This route will make you feel like you are wearing moon boots if flailing or walking on the moon if sending.
The 3rd bolt will be hard to hang a draw for shorter people due to disintegrating feet. If that is the case, clip straight into the 2nd bolt and hang desired length draw.




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