Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ruckmans
Page Views: 1,668 total · 11/month
Shared By: D Argyle on Nov 22, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a tough climb! I'm not sure how the fa duo started it, but I found a thin and reachy sequence up the slabby face below the roof. Turning the roof is definitely the crux, but stay psyched for the runout above.

Location

Follow the approach to Crack in the Woods, Hand Jive, et.al. Look for the two bolts above the obvious roof just right of Crack in the Woods. Rap off of chains.

Protection

2 draws, maybe a small to midsize cam for a seam under the roof.
Can be TR'd. Clipping a bolt for directional is advised to save you from a nasty swing.

Photos

Skat B
Down Rodeo
 
Skat B   Down Rodeo
 
There's definitely a thin sequence on the slab leading up to the roof where there's a good undercling. You can clip the 1st bolt from here. If, however, you would prefer to clip the 1st bolt before jumping on the route, you can reach it by stemming the left chimney, which leads directly to "A Crack in the Woods" and either get a finger lock with your left hand and clip the bolt with your right hand or, the safer way, just use a stick clip. The crux is pulling over the roof. Oct 19, 2012